The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
We have already seen that the surplice was derived from the albe, and
Mr. Marriott has brought forward all the evidence that he can to show
that white was the colour of the vestments at the earliest times in
the history of the Church. His arguments, however, do not seem to
be conclusive, and his inferences do not commend themselves to Mr.
Macalister. The latter thinks, however, that the view that white was the
colour appropriated in primitive times to the dress of the Christian
ministry is preferable to the theory that the early vestments were of
the same elaborate description as their mediæval successors. He is of
opinion, nevertheless, that the passages upon which Mr. Marriott bases
his arguments are quite consistent with a third alternative, namely,
that no distinctive vestments were set apart for the exclusive use of
the Christian minister during the first four centuries of the Christian
era.
The dalmatic was a wide gown or tunic with long full sleeves, which was
derived apparently from the albe and used by persons in high secular
positions before it was adopted by the Church. In the mediæval period
the dalmatic was slit for a short distance up either side and fringes
were added to decorate the slits, the hems, and the ends of the sleeves.
In this style the garment was worn by a bishop. There were, however,
only fringes on the left sleeves and along the left side in the form of
this vestment which was appropriated to a deacon.
Most elaborate explanations were offered by mediæval writers for this
difference, which seems merely to be a matter of convenience for the
deacon, who served at the altar. It was important that he should have
his right side free, and the heavy fringes would have got into his way.
One of the ideas with regard to the fringe was that the absence from the
right side symbolizes our freedom from care in the world to come; but
why, Mr. Macalister asks, was not the bishop to be exempt from care
in the future world? In connection with the coronation of English
sovereigns the dalmatic is still used, as well as representatives of
other ecclesiastical vestments, but to these we shall refer again.
It is not at all unlikely that the stole which a clergyman wears after
the fashion of an untied tie, and which hangs from his neck nearly to
the ground, is really the same thing as our handkerchief, and it is
certain that it was employed originally as a scarf or _orarium_. In many
Roman monuments which are not of an ecclesiastical character, scarves
are worn over the rest of the dress. They pass over the left shoulder,
diagonally, towards the right side, and are fastened under the right
arm. They are not to be confounded with the two bands of purple (or
_clavi_) which on the tunics of senators and other important men ran
round the sides of the neck openings and down to the lower hem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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