The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is probable that the scarves were used in the same way as favours and
"colours" among ourselves. It is recorded that Aurelian was the first
emperor who distributed "oraria" as presents to the people to be worn as
favours. In this connection we must not forget the ribbons of the
Knightly Orders, which we have already mentioned when speaking of the
baldric.
The Fourth Council of Toledo enacted that deacons should wear their
stoles over their left shoulder so that their right arm might be free to
facilitate the execution of their duties in divine service. An English
church vestment actually goes by the name of the scarf, and is a broad
black band of silk worn in the same way as the stole. It is probably a
modification of some article of university costume, possibly the tippet
(see p. 212), and is worn by Doctors of Divinity and the clerical
authorities of Collegiate and Cathedral bodies.
The outdoor garment which replaced the toga took several forms. One of
these had already been in use for some time as part of the dress of the
lower classes and of slaves. Speaking briefly, it rose in the world, and
emperors even wore it when they were travelling. One form, called the
casula, is of interest to us because it is the forerunner of the
chasuble.
So much attention has been drawn to ecclesiastical vestments of recent
years, owing to the adoption by English High Church clergy of those in
which Roman Catholic priests celebrate Mass, that it may be perhaps
of interest, even at the risk of recapitulation, to consider them. It
should be said at the outset that the stripes of embroidery, which are
often very elaborate and enriched with jewels, which appear on vestments
such as the amice and albe, are called apparels.
To garments which are white and have at times to be washed, these
ornaments are sewn or otherwise attached, so that they can be removed
when it is necessary and replaced. The amice we have not yet mentioned,
as it is of mediæval origin and did not come into our consideration of
the evolution of modern vestments from Roman dress. It was a rectangular
piece of linen, about thirty-six inches by twenty-five inches, with an
apparel sewn along one edge and a cross embroidered in the centre. This
the priest at the present time wears round his neck. The outer garment
or chasuble, which is richly ornamented, we have traced to the garment
which replaced the Roman toga, and as it is without sleeves and has
become heavier, it has been found necessary to slit up the sides. Under
this the stole is worn over the albe, and only its ends appear beneath
the chasuble. (See Figure 129.) There is ornamentation on the sleeves
of the albe, where they show, and on the back and front of it where it
shows below the chasuble.
[Illustration: FIG. 129.--A priest in the vestments now worn at the
celebration of the Eucharist.]
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