The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The apparels, according to Druitt, are possibly the remains of the
purple bands and other ornamentations of the Roman tunic, from which
we have seen that the albe was derived. Over the left arm the priest
carries a maniple which is something like a stole. This was originally
made of linen, and worn over the fingers of the left hand. There
is no doubt but that it was once a napkin and, according to Mr.
G. C. Coulton,[28] originally used in the fashion of a modern
pocket-handkerchief. That it was a napkin is shown by quotations from
ancient writers, and there seems no doubt also that many refinements of
Roman civilization, of which the pocket handkerchief was one, were lost
in the later Middle Ages. In fact, the handkerchief only began to come
into general use in polite society about Henry VIII's reign, and the
maniple of the ministrant at the altar must have lost its original use,
or Bernard would not have twice warned him against blowing his nose on
his chasuble or surplice.
When speaking of the handkerchief, there is another use which we may
mention. It was often employed for ceremonial purposes in connection
with the giving of presents, and this idea seems to have come from
Eastern lands, where gifts are wrapped in highly ornamental covers. In
the parable of the talents, one of them, it will be remembered, was
wrapped in a napkin, and even to-day the labourer has his dinner taken
to him in a brightly coloured cotton handkerchief.
Among the special vestments of bishops are the dalmatic, which we have
already described, and the tunicle, which originally did not differ from
it, and began to be worn beneath it about the twelfth century. Others
are the buskins or stockings (which were originally reserved for the
pope), sandals, ring, gloves, and mitre, together with a pastoral staff
adapted from the shepherd's crook.
Archbishops have a cross staff and a pallium or pall which is probably
derived from the same ancestor as the stole, namely the orarium, which,
we have seen, was a favour or distinction granted by the Roman Emperor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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