The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The word pallium has been applied to a number of garments in the past,
many of which were of a flowing character, and some writers have seen
in the archbishop's pall a small vestige of what was once an ample
vestment. Early pictures, however, show the pall looped round the
shoulders with one end hanging in front of the body and one behind. Mr.
Macalister says that it was difficult sometimes to distinguish between
it and the stole, and that the next step in its evolution was to knot
the free ends to the loops as shown in the eighth, ninth, and tenth
centuries. From this it was but an easy step to the final form which
consists of an oval loop with a long tail pendent from each of its ends,
so that when it is worn on the person it makes a capital "Y" on the back
and another on the chest. It should be pointed out that the pall must
not be confounded with the apparel of the chasuble called the orphrey,
which also has a "Y" shape.
In connection with the manufacture of the pall there are some
interesting proceedings. It is made from the wool of two lambs, and they
are solemnly blessed on Saint Agnes's day in the church dedicated in
the name of that saint at Rome. The animals are chosen with special
reference to their whiteness and goodness, and are carried into Rome in
separate baskets, which are slung over a horse's back.
On the way to the church the Pope makes the sign of the cross from a
window over the lambs, and they, after Mass has been celebrated and they
have been blessed by the celebrant, go back to the Pope, who sends them
to a nunnery, where they are shorn and the wool made into palls by the
nuns.
The modern pall has six black crosses on it, but previous to the eighth
century it had sometimes four, sometimes eight, worked in purple.
At first the pall was fastened by gold pins to the chasuble to keep it
in place, but just as ladies now use little lead weights to keep parts
of their dress in position, so lead was used to hold the archbishop's
pall in place. The effigy of Albrect von Brandenburg in 1555, at
Mayence, shows two palls, which probably indicate that he was Archbishop
of Magdeburg as well as of Mayence. This repetition can hardly be
strictly correct, as the pall could only be worn within the Archbishop's
province.
Archbishops in olden days appeared to have had no authority to act
until they received their pall from the Pope. The honour was, however,
bestowed occasionally on bishops. The pall is generally shown on the
coats of arms of archbishops. (See Figure 130.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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