The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The cope is one of the so-called processional vestments. It does not
appear before the ninth century, and is apparently connected with Roman
dress. It was an outer cloak without sleeves, and originally was used
as a protection from the weather at open-air processions in Rome, its
ancestor probably being the lacerna. In a similar way the almuce was a
hood to protect the head, and such articles, as Mr. Macalister says, the
clergy would continue to adopt in their cold and draughty churches or in
open-air processions.
[Illustration: FIG. 130.--The coat of arms of Thomas à Becket. Showing
an archbishop's pall.]
Of monastic habits the earliest was the Benedictine, consisting of a
cassock over which was worn the cowl--a large, loose gown, with hanging
sleeves and a hood attached to it. In the old times the costume of
abbesses and nuns resembled the mourning habit of widows, who often
retired to end their days in a convent. When the English Church was
reformed, the Mass vestments practically disappeared. The first Prayer
Book of Edward VI prescribed for the Holy Communion a white albe,
without any apparels, with a vestment or cope, while the assistant
priest or deacons were to wear albes with tunicles. The cope was also
to be worn with a plain albe or surplice on Wednesdays and Fridays when
there was no communion. The bishop was to wear a rochet, a surplice or
albe, and a cope or vestment. The second Prayer Book prohibited the use
of the albe, vestment, or cope to the minister, allowing him only a
surplice, while the archbishop or bishop was allowed a rochet. The Act
of Uniformity upheld the ornaments rubric of the first Prayer Book of
Edward VI, and this has never been superseded.
The lawn sleeves of the modern bishop developed from the rochet, which
was a kind of modified albe, which at first had a kind of tight-fitting
sleeves or none at all. Over this rochet is worn a black satin chimere,
and as it was difficult to get this over the bishop's sleeves, they were
removed from the rochet and are now fastened to the chimere. The black
scarf we have already considered.
It is customary at the present day for clergy of the English Church to
wear the academical hood of their university degree over their
surplices. This is ordained by the fifty-eighth canon, but ministers who
are not graduates are permitted to wear, instead of hoods, "some decent
tippet of black, be it not silk." It appears that in the time of
Elizabeth, in everyday dress, ministers wore a gown and some of them a
silk hood. The tippet is a survival of the almuce, which we mentioned
in connection with the cope, and is one of the so-called processional
dresses. It must therefore not be confounded with the amice, which is a
truly ecclesiastical vestment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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