The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
[Illustration: FIG. 138.--The hat of a bishop of the Stuart Period
showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was
becoming necessary (after Fairholt).]
There is a likeness between the round hat of the doctor and the Tudor
flat cap, and Fairholt would derive the mortar-board from the same
head-dress; and as illustrating the story of its evolution, he compares
the cap shown in the portrait of Cranmer (see Figure 137) in the British
Museum with that of a bishop of the time of Charles I (see Figure 138);
and here again the need for stiffening is obvious, if the enlargement of
the crown of the cap be carried any further.
XXIII
LEGAL DRESS
VESTIGES OF THE COIF--HOODS AND GOWNS--SIGNS OF MOURNING
It would be strange if the majesty of the law did not depend to some
extent upon dress, and there is no doubt but that an impressiveness
which would otherwise be absent from our courts is given by wigs and
gowns. The wigs themselves are an interesting survival, and presumably
are not more uncomfortable to the few who now wear them than they were
to many in times gone by. We will describe here a few interesting
vestiges among those which are to be met with in legal costume.
Any one who has an opportunity of looking on to the top of a judge's wig
will notice a small circular depression about three inches across. (See
Figure 139.) This has a very interesting history, and in order to trace
it we shall have to look at the long wigs of the serjeants-at-law,
from whose ranks in the past most of the judges used to come. On the
serjeant's wig we shall find that there is a similar depression, and
that it is filled with a circular white patch, having a black centre,
and reminding one of two large pieces of court plaster, one stuck over
the other. (See Figure 140.)
[Illustration: FIG. 139.--The wig of a modern judge.]
The white piece represents the coif, or close-fitting cap of white
lawn or silk which resembles that of a nun, and with which the
serjeants-at-law on their creation were decked. From this cap, the body
to which the serjeants-at-law belonged was called the Order of the
Coif. It seems that the origin of this head-dress cannot definitely be
settled. Mr. Druitt[32] and Mr. Paley Baildon are content to consider it
as part of the insignia of the serjeants-at-law, in the same way that
the round cap indicates the possessor of a doctor's degree, and they are
not inclined to give credence to the suggestion that the coif was to
hide the tonsure or to prevent its absence from being noticed. The black
patch represents a black skull-cap that was worn over the coif.
[Illustration: FIG. 140.--The vestige of the coif from the wig of a
serjeant-at-law.]
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