The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
After having been in existence for many hundreds of years, the order
of serjeants-at-law was abolished by Mr. Gladstone. Lord Lindley, we
believe, is the last member who survives. A black skull-cap is also worn
by a judge, but it is not to be confounded with the cap of dignity which
is used by him when pronouncing sentence, and which was ordered to be
worn in church when on circuit. Ordinarily, the judge does not wear his
scarlet gown, but a black one, the girdle of which has grown to a very
great width.
The drab colour of the trimmings, which does not harmonize well with the
rest of the gown, has recently begun to give way to primrose, and the
change is due to the initiative of the late Lord Coleridge.
It is said that black gowns which are worn by the King's Counsel and
other barristers superseded the coloured ones on the death of Queen
Mary II, and in reality were intended as mourning which has never been
discarded. Legal gowns have come down with very little change from the
Middle Ages, and are doubtless derived from ecclesiastical through
academical costume. The original robes of the serjeants-at-law were
somewhat striking in colour, for taking a line down the centre of the
black, one half was of a mustard colour and the other red, while the
latter was further ornamented with green stripes. The robe of the Barons
of the Exchequer was of a beautiful heliotrope tint.
The material of the gown of the King's Counsel is indicated by the
phrase "taking silk." One peculiarity of the garment is that it has a
large collar resembling that of court-ushers and of vergers in churches.
The ordinary dress of the King's Counsel which he wears in court is
interesting on account of the ornamental cuffs and the escalloped flaps
of the pockets of the coat and waistcoat, which resemble those of Court
dress.
[Illustration: FIG. 141.--A barrister's gown showing the vestigial hood
and its streamer. The buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up
the sleeves now fix it permanently.]
On the barrister's gown there is a tiny hood on the left shoulder
resembling that from which the chaperon was developed, and from the
vestige runs a streamer which comes over the left shoulder and hangs
down in front of the gown. (See Figure 141.) There is also a series of
buttons as well as pieces of braid on the sleeves which are survivals,
and we have not the hanging sleeves of the King's Counsel, which are
comparable to those seen in many academic gowns. Small falling bands
are of course generally worn by members of the legal profession, and
barristers and King's Counsel when in mourning have a little pleat down
the middle of each band. Perhaps the most curious additions to legal
costume used in order to indicate mourning are the little white lawn or
muslin cuffs, like those of widows, which the King's Counsel wear on
their sleeves when the Court is in mourning, or when they themselves
have suffered bereavement.
XXIV
STATE AND COURT ATTIRE
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