THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR, THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. _FROM THE FRENCH OF_ M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. BY MRS. CASHEL HOEY AND MR. JOHN LILLIE. [Illustration] London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1882. [_All rights reserved._] LONDON: PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE. CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies—Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars’ yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin’s—A remark of Mrs. Trollope’s—The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynæceum of Amman—First appearance of the “Journal des Dames et des Modes”—Lamésangère—Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of Fashion in France 1 CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgètes—“Mavors” and “Palla”—Cleanliness of the Gallic women—The froth of beer or “kourou”—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions—Gallo-Roman period—The Roman garment—The “stola”—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women—Artificial aids—A “vestiaire” or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians 13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter—The Merovingians—Costumes of skins and felt; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the “guimpe,” the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers—Various articles of dress—The “suint”—Young girls dress their hair without ornaments—St. Radégonde—The hair of married women 21 CHAPTER III. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD.