Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two tunics—Judith’s belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the Mazarin Library—Charles the Bald’s Bible—Shoes—Dress of Queen Lutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha—Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne—Cannes—Adelaide of Vermandois—The dress of widows 25 CHAPTER IV. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of costume in the provinces—Fashions in the Duchy of France—French taste dating from the eleventh century—Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical—The “bliaud”—Canes of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth century—Head-dresses—“Afiche”—Serpent-tails—Pelisses—The thirteenth century—“Grèves” and veils are in fashion—The “couvre-chef” in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or “cotte-hardie,” surcoat, or overall, or over-skirt, cape, trained skirt, and “gauzape”—Accessories—Emblazoned gowns—Various kinds of stuffs 31 CHAPTER V. THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES. Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and _guimpes_—Marguerite of Provence—“Fermaux”—Reappearance of splendour in dress—Eastern customs—The priests of fashion—Haberdashery and peacock-feathers—Female embroiderers—Taste for embroidery—Continual temptations—Earliest sumptuary laws—Furs—St. Louis’s opinion on dress—Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife—Crépine 39 CHAPTER VI. REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V. The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries—Low dresses—Saying of a mercer—_Damoiselles_—_Garnaches_ and _garde-corps_—_Le Parement des dames_—Social distinctions—High character is worth more than gilded belt—Precious stones—The castles and other dwellings of the Middle Ages—Splendid furniture—Humble abodes of the poor—Evening assemblies 45 CHAPTER VII. REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII. Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings, the “cornette,” and the “hennin” in the reign of Charles VI.—Husbands complain—Preachers denounce—Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard tries to reform it—The “hennin” gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon—“Escoffion”—An absurd figure—Gravouère—Isabeau de Bavière—Gorgiasetés—Tripes—Splendour of the court—Agnes Sorel—“Coiffe adournée;” diamonds; the carcan—Walking-sticks 51 CHAPTER VIII.