The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
We must restrict ourselves to the garments worn by women in each
succeeding age, and indeed we must confine ourselves to France alone, if
we would achieve as complete a picture as possible of the transformations
in female dress from the time of the Gauls to the day on which we shall
have accomplished our task.
Grace, vivacity, and, we must add, caprice, are the distinguishing
characteristics of Frenchwomen. With some very few exceptions we
shall find the qualities or the failings of our charming countrywomen
reproduced in their mode of dress. Be she a peasant or a dweller in
cities, a working woman or a duchess, every Frenchwoman in town or
country reveals herself frankly by the clothes she wears. Her innate
desire to please makes her especially object to wear garments of any one
particular fashion for long. She is ingenious in devising countless novel
accessories to her dress, and adding to its effect. She adorns herself
with embroidery, with lace, and with jewels, and, if need be, with
flowers, that she may be irresistibly attractive.
A Frenchwoman endeavours to supplement those gifts bestowed upon her
by nature by the refinements of the toilet. She maintains that fashion
is never ridiculous, because good sense is never wanting in France to
curb extravagance, and good taste will ever preserve the harmonious
proportions that are an inherent necessity in dress.
It has been said by a woman of tact and observation, “It is perhaps
allowable to be sentimental in a sky-blue bonnet, but one must not cry in
a pink one.”
This remark as to the fitness of dress shows that Frenchwomen are
properly attentive to the harmony that should exist between the moral
state of a person and the garments suitable for her wear. Mme. Emile de
Girardin observes acutely, “There is but one way of wearing a beautiful
gown, and that is to forget it.”
“Go where you will,” wrote (in 1835) the travelled Englishwoman Mrs.
Trollope, “and you see French fashions, but only in Paris do you see
how they should be worn.... The dome of the Invalides, the towers of
Notre-Dame, the column of the Place Vendôme, the windmills of Montmartre
belong to Paris less essentially and less exclusively than the style of a
bonnet, a cap, a shawl, a curl, or a glove ... when worn by a Parisian in
the city of Paris.”
It is therefore perfectly true to say that a history of fashion in
women’s dress in France has a singular likeness to a history of the
French female character. There exists not a woman, according to Mme. de
Genlis, who does not possess at least one secret in the art of dress, and
that secret she is sure to keep to herself.
In France, the classic land of fancy, the empire of Fashion has assuredly
been more deeply felt than elsewhere. From time immemorial Frenchwomen
have altered their fashions each succeeding day. An eminently French poet
was thinking of his countrywomen when he composed the following lines,
which sum up all that has been said on our present interesting subject:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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