The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Il est une déesse inconstante, incommode,
Bizarre dans ses goûts, folle en ses ornements,
Qui paraît, fuit, revient, renaît en tous les temps;
Protée était son père et son nom est la Mode.”[4]
Now, Proteus the sea-god, in order to escape from questioning upon the
future, changed his shape at pleasure.
It might be said that the poet we have just quoted was referring to
Parisian ladies in particular; but this would be a mistake; for a great
number of elegant women reside in the provinces, and have quite as
fervent a devotion to the inconstant goddess as their Parisian sisters.
In former times Fashion reserved its great effects and its utmost
brilliancy for the rich only; in the present day it pervades every rank
of society, and exercises its influence even over the national costume of
the peasant; for a cotton gown will now be cut on the same pattern as a
velvet one.
All Frenchwomen like perpetual change in dress, and foreigners follow
French fashions almost implicitly. Spanish women only, actuated by their
national pride, refused for a long time to make any change in their
costume, yet even they are now beginning to dress “à la Française.”
At present the type of feminine dress always originates in Paris, and
spreads thence, throughout France, into the most distant regions of
Europe, and even into Asia and America. In both those countries our
fashion-books are widely circulated. “Paris,” writes a contemporary
author, “possesses the undisputed privilege of promulgating sumptuary
laws for nations. The fashions of Paris are and will be the fashions of
the world; that of which Paris approves will endure; that which Paris
condemns must disappear. But for the good taste and the fickleness of
Parisians, but for the inventive genius and manual dexterity of their
artisans, mankind might be clothed indeed, but never dressed.”
And what of womankind? Where is the Frenchwoman, the Englishwoman, the
Italian, the German, or the Russian, who does not require her milliner to
make her a bonnet on the pattern of those which emanate from a Parisian
‘atelier’? “France,” as Victor Hugo has said, “will always be in fashion
in Europe.” Those nations who are least in sympathy with her accept and
observe her laws on elegance and ‘ton.’
This can be proved by figures. The exportation of articles of fashion
manufactured in France reaches a very high figure; our importations of
foreign goods of the same kind are, on the contrary, quite insignificant.
The word “fashion” seems to convey to young people an almost absolute
sense of novelty. Yet are there distinctions. There is new and new, just
as, according to Molière, there are “fagots” and “fagots.” That which
is new to-day may be but a revival of what is old, a reminiscence of
the past. The axiom, “There is nothing new under the sun,” applies with
special force to Fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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