At the close of the eighteenth century, Paris contained 38 master makers of needles and pins, 542 knitted cap and cuff-makers, 82 female bouquet-sellers and florists, 262 embroiderers, 1824 shoemakers, 1702 dressmakers, 128 fan-makers, 318 workers in gold and silver stuffs, &c., 250 glove-makers and perfumers, 73 diamond-cutters, 659 lingères, 143 dancing-masters, 2184 mercers, 700 barbers and male and female wig-makers, 24 feather-dressers and plume-mounters, 735 ribbon-sellers, and 1884 cutters-out of coats and gowns. In 1776 the feather-dressers combined their business with that of fashionable dressmakers. Mercers sold lace, silks brocaded in gold and silver, gold braid, gold and silver network, and woollen materials of various kinds. Turgot suppressed the guild of female bouquet-vendors, and ruled that women should pass “masters” in any profession suitable to their sex, not only as embroiderers and milliners, but also as hair-dressers. Increased grace and delicacy in feminine attire was the result of this innovation. Large numbers of skilled mechanics obtained a respectable livelihood by goldsmiths’ and jewellery work, by skin-dressing, or working in silk, wool, cloth, and cashmere. Coloured cottons were sold in great quantities; women were employed in their manufacture, to colour the material. They were called “pinceauteuses.” Very superior muslin was produced in France, and the art of dyeing made continual progress, owing to the efforts of the greatest chemists of the age. From the princess to the working woman, the fair sex neglected nothing that might increase their attractions. A moralist has justly observed: “I have heard of women wanting bread, but never of one who went without pins.” We shall meet with some exceptions to this rule during the Revolution; but they only help to prove it, and were of brief duration. [Illustration] [Illustration: Republic from 1790 to 1792 Republic 1793 and 1794] CHAPTER XX. THE FRENCH REPUBLIC. 1789 TO 1804. The year 1789—Masculine style of dress—The double dress vanishes—Caps “à la grande prêtresse,” “à la pierrot,” and “à la laitière”—The “pouf” bonnet—Paint and powder disappear—Prediction by the _Cabinet des Modes_—Anonymous caps—Cap “à la Charlotte Corday”—Trinkets “à la Bastille”—Mme. de Genlis’ locket—Cap “à la Bastille”—Federal uniforms—Claims to equality in dress—Reaction under the Directory—“Incroyables” and “merveilleuses”—Coiffures “à la victime” and “à la Titus”—Blond wigs and black wigs—The Hôtel Thélusson—_Which is the most ridiculous?_—Mme. Tallien’s costume—Epigram on bonnets “à la folle”—Reticules—Transparent dresses—Lines by Despréaux. Time has passed, and we have reached the year 1789. For a while, at least, we must bid farewell to the reign of Fancy. Farewell, Arcadia! Farewell, ye shepherdesses! Fashion is about to become simpler, as the horizon darkens.