The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
At the period we have now reached, the tastes of women were serious, just
as those of their husbands were political. They repaired to the Champs
Elysées in the dress of Amazons, wearing great coats and black hats,
carrying a cane or a whip, wearing a watch on each side, and a bunch
of rattling “breloques,” seals, and other appendages. Their hats were
helmet-shaped.
Such was the costume of the more audacious among them. Others, who shrank
from adopting masculine attire, assumed a matronly appearance by wearing
long trailing gowns of sober tint, either in silk or some fancy material.
All wore very short-waisted bodices, displaying a good deal of the bosom,
unless it were hidden by a gauze kerchief, or long scarf, which was
either printed in colours, braided, or brocaded.
The fashion of two dresses, one worn over the other, that had been so
general in the latter half of the seventeenth century, and the first half
of the eighteenth, had completely disappeared in favour of one gown
only. The arms were either altogether bare, with a sort of padded strap
at the shoulder, or were covered from shoulder to wrist by plain tight
sleeves.
Caps were occasionally worn, with velvet or silk crown, lace frillings,
and a graceful bow of ribbon above the forehead. These caps were tied
under the chin by a ribbon of the same colour, and fastened at the back
by a similar rosette.
The caps of former times were little worn. Some, however, still remained
in fashion; for instance, caps “à la grande prêtresse” (high priestess);
these were made of white gauze, and encircled by a broad ribbon. Old
ladies still wore caps “à la pierrot,” trimmed with quantities of lace.
Nor were caps “à la laitière” (milkmaid) quite given up; they were worn
at the back of the head. In 1789, the national cockade was worn.
Generally speaking, ladies preferred bonnets, and straw bonnets
in particular, trimmed with flame-coloured ribbon, and displaying
waving locks under the brim. Others wore “pouf” bonnets, with the
most extraordinary arrangements, on the outside, of military or naval
trophies; these were very popular for several years.
Everybody carried a fan, or an embroidered handkerchief, in the left hand.
But the women would no longer use either paint or powder—a miracle due to
the Revolution. Powder they considered unnecessary, paint ridiculous, and
both savoured of aristocracy.
What a change had taken place between 1789 and 1795, in the aspect of the
fair sex. At the time of the Convocation of the Notables, caps were made
“à la notable,” trimmed with beads, artificial flowers, and feathers;
next came caps “à la Turque,” “à la Béarnaise,” and lastly “à l’anonyme,”
for new names could no longer be found for all the vagaries of fashion.
The “Cabinet des Modes” of Nov. 5, 1790, observes: “Our way of living
is becoming purified; extravagance and luxury are diminishing.” The
anticipation was correct, but it applied to a very brief period.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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