The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Black lace mantles were embellished by little ruchings of narrow lace, or
by “frisettes,” a sort of braid which formed a frill on each side of a
silk thread running through its entire length.
Among the favourite colours of the period was Isly green, so named in
honour of the great victory obtained by Marshal Bugeaud, in 1844, over
the armies of the Emperor of Morocco. Women wore a great deal of Algerian
finery, or at any rate, their dressmakers got ideas from the events
taking place in the colony, and made use of them in their work.
“Sorties de bal,” or opera cloaks, were much worn at the same period.
There was no dearth of dancing parties in the winter of 1849-50, and the
number of entertainments in Paris astonishes the historian who remembers
the political events of that same year.
The Marie Stuart and the Valois head-dresses were both in fashion;
the latter being adopted by young and pretty women who wished to be
conspicuous. The hair when dressed in this style was drawn back from
the brow, and rolled over a pad right round the forehead. The “Druid”
head-dress was composed of oak leaves; the “Nereid,” of all the flowers
beloved by Naiads; the “Leda” consisted of little feathers of Barbary
birds; the “Proserpine” of wild flowers, for this was Proserpine’s mode
before she was abducted by Pluto. Lastly, the “Ceres,” consisting of the
attributes of the genial goddess.
Long chains of large beads without clasps were worn round the neck, and
reached to the waist; bracelets were of marcasite, enamel, diamonds, and
cameos; velvet bands an inch or two in width were fastened closely round
the throat.
On the first appearance of sunshine, ladies provided themselves, when
about to take a walk or pay a visit, with small parasols, white, pink, or
green. These were called “marquises,” and were trimmed with broad lace.
Parasols were sometimes fashioned like small umbrellas, and were useful
in case of a sudden shower. Soon afterwards they were bordered with a
wreath of embroidered flowers, or with a satin stripe either of the same
colour as the parasol, or blue or green on écru, or violet on white or
buff.
Bouquets of jewellery for the breast were worn by only a few, on account
of their cost. One was exhibited at the Industrial Exhibition of 1849,
which, although of only ordinary size, and containing neither diamonds,
nor other precious stones, was valued at seven thousand francs. We must
add that this ornament could be altered at pleasure so as to form a
tiara, a bracelet, or a necklace.
In order to defy the Paris mud, ladies wore high-heeled kid boots, and
gaiters of lamb-skin, buttoning on the outer side.
Shoes were hardly seen except at balls, and were worn with beautiful
hand-embroidered stockings, either of silk or Scotch thread.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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