The manufacture of artificial flowers received a great impetus at the Exhibition of 1855; and it is no exaggeration to say that flowers which rivalled Nature itself were produced. [Illustration] CHAPTER XXIX. REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED). 1862 TO 1867. Sunshades, en-tout-cas, _métis_, in 1862—Sailors’ jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets—Princess or demi-princess gowns; Swiss bodices; corset or postillion belts—Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets; Vespertina opera cloaks—“Longchamps is no more”—Bois de Boulogne—Russian or Garibaldi bodices—Paletot vest—Empress belt—1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864—Victoria skeleton skirts; Indian stays; train-supporters—“Titian”-coloured hair—The Peplum in 1866—Épicycloïde steels; aquarium earrings—Description of a court ball-dress—The fashions of Louis XV., Louis XVI., and the Empire are revived—Sedan chairs—Handkerchiefs at all prices. In our beautiful France, where the fault of the climate is its too frequent showers, it often happened that ladies set out to walk, parasol in hand, with the sun shining brightly overhead, but during their walk a downpour of rain would overtake them, ruin their dress in one moment, and reduce them to utter despair. How were such heavy misfortunes to be avoided? How were mortals to contend against the uncertainty of climate? A remedy was sought and found. Parasol-makers invented the “en-tout-cas,” equally useful in sunshine and in rain; and in 1862 they went a step farther, and manufactured parasols that might have been called “métis,” or half-breeds—that is to say, half en-tout-cas and half sunshade. These were equally useful as a protection against heavy rain or burning sunshine. And now began the reign of the comfortable; every day the dress and bearing of women became more unrestrained, and less formal. In 1862, sailors’ jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets were not only worn while travelling, or in the country, but also in towns. They were made of light cloth, in English textures, in silk poplin, alpaca, and black silk with much gimp trimming—for gimp is never out of fashion; it is too valuable to the dressmakers, as a means of increasing the amount of their bills. Simultaneously with the introduction of the fancy garments I have just mentioned, gowns were very prettily made, with bodices either slightly pointed, or with waist-bands or long sashes, or else princess shape or demi-princess. Swiss bodices were also worn, and “corslet” and “postillion” belts. The above designations need no commentary; the elegant appearance of such costumes can be easily imagined; they were “characteristic,” and not always of French origin. On that very account, perhaps, they were the more successful. Very many fashions are the result of caprice; but they are also modes of commemorating some great literary, musical, or dramatic success, or of celebrating some important event.