The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Black continued in fashion during the winter, and was made brilliantly
effective by the addition of lace trimmings and quantities of jet. Very
pretty fichus made of white or black tulle, sprinkled with jet beads, and
a high collar with frills on the inner side, were sometimes worn over
black costumes.
Ball dresses were characterized by deep “Henri II.” ruffs, and “Louis
XV.” sleeves trimmed with steel, silver, or gold beads, embroidered,
and even gold lace. Muslin and tarlatan resumed their former place in
female attire. Past periods were called upon for their fashions, either
successively or together. Costumes of a composite order, if I may borrow
an architectural term, were introduced.
The hair continued to be dressed high, and frizzed or waved over the
forehead. Ringlets at the back of the head went out of fashion; only a
couple of curls were allowed to stray on the neck. We may mention the
“Swiss” style of head-dress as something new. It consisted of two long
plaits hanging behind, and ending in a curl, above which was tied a
narrow ribbon.
False hair was worn more generally than ever. We learn from some
interesting and curious statistics that 51,816 kilogrammes of false hair
were sold in France in 1871; 85,959 in 1872; and 102,900 in 1873. These
figures were probably surpassed in 1874 and the succeeding years.
The hair is chiefly procured from Normandy, Auvergne, and Brittany.
Haircutters whose special business is the collecting of it, procure it in
April and May. They give in exchange coloured prints, muslin, and calico,
or they pay for it in money at five francs the kilogramme.
Who could have thought, at an earlier period, that the trade in hair
could have become so greatly developed in France?
During the winter, ladies principally aimed at warmth, and replaced
the classic waterproof by a circular cloak of silk, lined with flannel
or with fur, and slightly wadded. The furs most commonly used, besides
squirrel and Russian wild cat, were otter and Russian fox.
The Chamber of Commerce in Paris gave a ball in honour of Marshal
MacMahon, the second President of the Republic, at which thousands of
fairy-like costumes were all the more admired because they had been so
long unseen at official receptions. Few dresses came unhurt out of the
palace on that occasion; the dust was stifling, the crowd overwhelming,
and the pushing most unpleasant.
In the spring of 1874, tunics were succeeded by a sort of peplum, cut in
one piece with the bodice, and forming basques at the back.
Ladies wore “merveilleuse” hats in jet lace, one side turned up, with a
bunch of flowers.
Green was the favourite colour for gowns—verdegris, mignonette,
frog-green, bottle-green, canary-green, sage-green, &c., &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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