Corset-chemises made with gussets were most favourably received, and were included in every wedding trousseau, as were also white muslin morning-gowns, which were found very convenient for home wear. The “housewife’s” fan, which came out in 1879, held thread, scissors, and needles. Fan-holders were made of silver or of nickel silver, with a long or short chain, according to the taste of the wearer. Those fashionable trinkets, the lizard, the fly, and the bee, were laid aside, and were succeeded by an owl. This was used as a brooch to fasten the bonnet strings. Tags, girdles, “Diane de Poitiers” necklaces of very small pearls, jet in every shape, crosses of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and lockets of antique design, were very fashionable; as were also Brittany, Normandy, and Vendée crosses, with religious emblems of the Sacred Heart or St. Michael. The nomenclature of the new stuffs is bewildering. There was “Osaka” crape, and “Æolian,” a mixture of wool and silk; there was honey-combed beige of two shades; “annamite” crape; “grene” and “Pompadour sateens” for “Louis XV.” costumes; jaconets with satin stripes and Indian prints; Watteau material; pekins in two shades, and “Pompadour” foulards; striped grenadines and Italian silk; Turkish, Egyptian, Indian, Japanese, and Persian stuffs, embroidered in silk, gold beads, and even in precious stones and glistening colours; and lastly, materials with the grotesque names of “Tchilka,” “Ladakh” cloth, “Sutlej,” “Lahore,” “crépon,” and “Tchinab.” Paniers, quite unlike those of the eighteenth century, were composed of the material of the gown, arranged in draped folds on the hips, and hidden at the back by the folds of the skirt. They were trimmed with kiltings and lace, for evening wear, and sometimes even with flowers. Stamped velvet casaques, or shawl-pattern casaques, were frequently worn with dresses of plain material. We must also note “Marie Christine visites,” “Catherine de Russie houppelandes,” jackets, coats, paletot-jackets, and “Montespan” bodices. For walking in the country, the alpaca braid usually put at the edge of the skirt was sometimes replaced by a deep band of black leather, from which a damp sponge and a dry cloth effectually removed all trace of mud. What a number of charming bows! “Butterfly,” “Figaro,” and “Colbert” bows; “Marion” shirt-frill bows, and “Yolande” bows, in “merveilleux” satin, and cockades of lace. The “new” bow, consisting of surah very delicately gathered, was prettily trimmed with lace. And what a number of exquisite cravats! viz., the “Louis XIII.,” the “Royal,” the “Girondist,” the “Diana,” the “Soubise,” and the “Haydée.”