The year 1880 opened inauspiciously in the midst of the terrible winter that had begun in December 1879. The fashions of January were consequently all for warm and thick materials, for furs, warmly lined shoes, india-rubber overalls, lined with stout flannel, that were drawn over the foot and boot, and enabled the wearer to brave both the snow and the subsequent thaw. The old-fashioned “cabriolet,” or drawn-hoods, were revived; they could be worn either over a bonnet or without one. They were generally made of otter-plush. “Mazarin” capes came into fashion at the same time, and even “passe-montagnes” enjoyed a momentary favour. “Pilgrim” costumes were worn: their name sufficiently describes them. Brighter weather at last succeeded to the intense frosts and fogs, and gracious Fashion resumed its sway, first with the “jupon intime,” a very narrow petticoat clinging closely to the figure, and then with gowns of velvet and otter satin. Next came ball-dresses,—late in the season certainly, but appreciated all the more eagerly because dancing parties had for two long months been unusually rare. The world began to take its revenge on winter. Black satin was extremely fashionable; and the “Danæ” costume in white satin was simply exquisite. Costumes in light cloth or double cashmere were very popular. The list of new materials is completed by “Renaissance,” “sublime,” and “down-satin” (duvet), “white Astrakan down,” “voile-de-veuve,” and “brilliantine.” Madras costumes were universally worn in summer. The favourite colours were, lotus-blue, Van Dyck red, the shade called “chaudron,” otter, mandragora, a sort of undecided blue-green called Venetian heliotrope, and others. Generally speaking, costumes were no longer made in one material and one shade only. Plum-colour, otter, Russian green, and moss-colour were mingled together; and gowns were made of faille and satin, or satin and velvet, of silk and wool, and all kinds of materials with designs. Cut and damasked materials, and, above all, the fashion of kilting withstood various efforts to abolish them. Jet capes were much worn; also open “Medici” collars, partly turning over, and, generally speaking, very graceful. Large collars—“Dauphin,” “King of Rome,” “Colette,” and “Incroyable”—were fashionable; also cravats, consisting of cascades of lace and very wide ribbon; and light and delicate scarfs.