REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—“La grand’gorre,” or sumptuosity—The “troussoire”—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses—“Collets rebrassés”—Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy—Italian fashions—“Sollerets” and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—Jean Marot writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot “the golden-tongued”—A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.—Coat à l’Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs 61 CHAPTER IX. REIGN OF FRANCIS I. The court of Francis I.—A speech of Charles V.—The king’s liberality—Order of the Cordelière—Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The “hoche-plis” or vertugadin—Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin’s life—Satires and songs—Mdlle. de Lacépède—“Contenances”—Silk shoes with slashes—Head-dress called a “passe-filon”—Increase of love of dress—The bean-flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair called _ratraprenades_—Ferronières—Coaches in Paris; their influence on the fashions 71 CHAPTER X. REIGN OF HENRI II. Fashions under Henri II.—The ruff—A satirical print of the time—Catherine de Médicis eats soup—The Italian taste—Regulations for dress—Crimson—Who shall wear silk?—Lines on velvet, by Ronsard—Rotonde—“Collet monté”—Spring-water—Style of gowns and head-dresses—Wired sleeves—Girdles—Caps, bonnets, and hoods—The “touret de nez”—The “coffin à roupies”—Shoes—A quotation from Rabelais 81 CHAPTER XI. REIGN OF FRANCIS II. The earliest queens of fashion—Mary Stuart’s costumes; her jewels—Description of bodices and sleeves of that period—Crosses—The “loup” or small mask—Coiffure “en raquette”—An anecdote concerning high heels—Regulations respecting fashion—Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress—Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549—Maximum of marriage portions—The first knitted silk stockings 89 CHAPTER XII. REIGN OF CHARLES IX.