The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
An elegant town lady would also adorn herself with a mantle that half
covered her head, and with the “pallium,” a golden tissue without either
clasps or pins, thrown across the left shoulder and round the figure.
Another would, like a Gallic woman, wear the Phrygian cap, which allowed
her beautiful hair to be seen and admired. This was fastened back with
the “vitta,” a ribbon or band which only patricians had the right to
use, crossed with narrow bands or confined in a net, and arranged with
much skill. The hair was frequently dyed red or yellow; or brown plaits
would be concealed under the fair locks taken from some German slave, and
lightly sprinkled with gold-dust.
The face of a Gallo-Roman lady was resplendent in beauty, thanks to the
refined arts of dress, and her complexion remained incomparably fair in
spite of the lapse of years. Beneath the tunic she wore the “strophium,”
a sort of corset which defined the figure, and in which she could carry
her letters. Ovid observes that to equalize the shoulders, if one were
rather higher than the other, it was sufficient to drape lightly the
lower of the two. Thus did “postiches” and padding originate.
The Gallo-Roman lady soon began to make use of the “sudarium” or
pocket-handkerchief, a piece of stuff, either plain or embroidered,
which she held in her hand to wipe the damp from her forehead, or to
use as we use our handkerchiefs. We can imagine her leaving her gilded
chariot, a sort of palanquin whose shafts were supported by a pair of
horses, mules, or oxen. This was a closed carriage lined with skins and
strewn with straw, and the noble lady lay within it, softly reposing on a
“pulvinar,” or large silken cushion scented with roses. She had adopted
the manners, if not the morals of the East. She could appreciate and
admire and amass rings of gold, silver ornaments for her dressing-table,
for the bath-room, for travelling; mirrors, earrings of incrusted glass,
rings, and necklaces. She made use of many different perfumes: scented
and hygienic pomatums, essence of lilies, roses, and myrrh, unguents made
from the cock and from pure spikenard. She delighted in waist-bands and
ribbons, in cushions, furs, and felt,—in one word, in all the luxuries
that contribute to cleanliness and elegance. She had a decided taste for
showy colours.
The wardrobe of a Gallic-Roman lady would consist of tissues of linen,
cotton, or silk, taking the place of the modern chemise; of a sort of
boneless corset to support the bosom, of a dressing-gown, of robes of
ceremony, of tunics, half tunics, and violet-coloured mantles, shaped
much like a modern pelerine. A Frenchwoman of the present day has not a
better assorted wardrobe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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