The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
On going out Gallic-Roman ladies donned a short mantle, which covered
their shoulders, and a scarf for their head, the light and transparent
veil of which their head-dress was composed sparkled with gold and silver
spangles, mingled with narrow bands, ribbons, and beads. They left their
pointed and cork-soled slippers, turned up at the toes and without heels,
at home. Similar shoes may be seen to this day in the Museum at Clermont,
in Auvergne.
Whenever an elegant patrician lady left her home to take a drive or pay
visits, she changed her shoes. Sandals took the place of the “lancia,”
or house-slippers. She sometimes wore the “cothurnus,” a walking-boot,
unrivalled, except by the light shoes called “campodes,” habitually worn
by the peasant women. Shoes were marks of distinction. For instance,
those called “peribarides” denoted that the Gallo-Roman lady, their
wearer, belonged to one of the highest families.
In Gaul, as in Rome, extravagance in jewels and ornaments defied all
the sumptuary laws, although the latter were as plentiful as they were
useless. Gallo-Romans would not be denied their gold and silver ornaments.
Cameos and engraved stones, emeralds, amethysts, sapphires, and the
finest pearls give immense value to the necklaces, rings, bracelets,
large circular earrings, and even garters, of that remote period.
Garters, we beg to point out, were not used to keep up stockings, which
were not worn in those times, but served to confine a sort of trouser of
fine linen. Some of the Gallo-Roman ladies wore these garters or anklets
on the bare leg, as they wore bracelets on the arm.
Parasols, steel mirrors, fans—all these things were known to the
Gallo-Roman period. Perfumers were constantly making fresh discoveries,
and there were dentists who manufactured marvellous false teeth, so as
“to repair the irreparable injuries of Time.” Any defects in the face
were remedied by drugs of all kinds. The eyelids were stained in order to
give brilliancy to the eyes.
At least twenty women were in the service of each patrician lady, and the
latter always devoted much time and thought to her dress. These women
attired her with exceeding care; they were admirable hair-dressers, and
used pomatum profusely. One was the proud bearer of a parasol. A Roman
fashion, borrowed from the Egyptians, prescribed that slaves should
carry in silver or golden nets the amber and crystal balls used by their
mistresses.
With what grace and skill did these noble ladies twist and press the
crystal balls in their fingers at a public fête, or at the circus or
theatre! They subdued by this means the excessive warmth of their hands,
and secured a constant coolness. When the crystal ball became heated,
it was succeeded by one of amber, which as it warmed gave forth a most
delightful odour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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