The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The reign of Charlemagne, and the passing away of the first race of our
kings, to be succeeded by the second, made no essential difference as
to dress. We cannot, in fact, ascribe much importance to the German and
Byzantine influences which succeeded each other at that period, but did
not destroy what we may denominate the Gallo-Roman style.
The most elegant dress of a woman in the tenth century consisted of two
tunics of different colours, one with long, the other with short sleeves;
on the feet were boots laced up in front. Wide bands of embroidery
bordered the throat, sleeves, and lower edge of the skirt. The waist-band
was placed just above the hips. This belt was generally of great value,
being studded with gold and jewels. The belt belonging to Judith, wife of
Louis le Débonnaire, weighed three pounds. At the present day there are
no waist-bands either of that weight or value.
The Carlovingian women wore splendidly embroidered veils, covering the
head and shoulders, and reaching almost to the ground. This lent a
character of severity to the costume, which was especially aimed at by
the women of that period. The veil was indispensable, being regarded as
the penalty of the sin of our Mother Eve, and the hair was concealed
beneath it.
Among the admirable miniatures in the Mazarin Library, there is one of
a queen wearing a triangular diadem, and a veil falling on either side
over the shoulders. The under-tunic is black, the upper, in the style of
a mantle, is violet. Both are bordered with yellow, her shoes are yellow
also, and borderings and shoes alike were probably ornamented with gold.
In the celebrated Bible of Charles the Bald, a most curious historical
treasure, there are paintings of four women wearing the chlamys in
different colours.
The chlamys is always white, with sleeves of gold brocade, with one
exception, when it is rose-coloured. The under-garments are bright
orange, light brown, light blue, and violet, with pale blue sleeves,
trimmed with strips of red embroidery on bands of a gold ground.
We find that gold was used everywhere and always, and while making due
allowance for the imagination of the artist, his pictures throw light on
the costumes of the period.
Observe that the four women all wear shoes, not boots.
The historian has in general but scanty material with which to trace the
dress of the princesses and ladies of the court under the Carlovingians,
on account of the many wars both civil and foreign that took place
between the time of Charlemagne and that of Charles the Simple.
Still less do we know concerning the dress of the women of the people,
for on that point history is almost silent. We learn, however, that their
skirts were extremely long, and that they wore veils much resembling the
veil of nuns, but thicker, and hanging more closely round the figure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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