The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time — John Shaqi
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Among women of noble rank the love of dress harmonized with the taste for
needlework displayed by the kinswomen of Charlemagne, as recorded by the
old chroniclers.
They worked with their own hands on silk and wool, but this did not
prevent them from loving and seeking to acquire magnificent possessions,
splendid ornaments and trimmings of excessive richness. The Empress
Judith, mother of Charles the Bald, was considered to have great skill in
embroidery. She gave to her godchild, the Queen of Denmark, a gown made
by herself and adorned with gold and gems. The ladies excelled in the
manufacture of small articles, such as bags, scarfs, sleeves, and belts.
Narrow purple bands were plaited in Queen Luitgarde’s beautiful hair, and
encircled her brow of dazzling fairness. Cords of gold held together her
chlamys, a splendid mantle thrown over her right shoulder. A beryl, that
clear and precious stone of bluish green, was set in her diadem. Her gown
was of fine linen, dyed purple; her neck sparkled with jewels.
Rotrude, the eldest daughter of Charlemagne, wore a mantle with a clasp
of gold and precious stones. Violet bands were plaited with her luxuriant
fair hair. A golden coronet diapered with gems as beautiful as those
in the clasp of her mantle encircled her brow, and gave her a truly
queen-like look. Rotrude had been promised in marriage to the Emperor
Constantine, who had heard of her beauty from beyond seas and mountains.
Bertha, another of Charlemagne’s daughters, who was married secretly to
Angilbert, a disciple of Alcuin, and a member of the Palatine school,
wore her hair confined in a golden fillet, and her head-dress was as
impressive as that of her sister. Yellow-green chrysolites sparkled on
the gold leaves with which her garments were embroidered.
Gisla, the best known of the great Emperor’s kinswomen, wore a purple
striped veil, and a dress dyed with the stamens of the marsh-mallow or
“mauve.”
Rhodaide rode on a superb horse; a gold bodkin set with jewels fastened
her flowing silken chlamys.
The mantle of Théodrade was hyacinth, and trimmed with moleskin; beads of
foreign fabric shone on her beautiful throat; on her feet she wore the
Greek cothurnus, like the Byzantine women.
Such are the descriptions given us by writers of the period, from whom we
also learn that the Carlovingian ladies wore but one girdle, placed very
low. The materials of their gowns were frequently transparent, revealing
the shoulders, arms, and lower limbs, and the gowns themselves were
somewhat clinging, so that the graceful undulating movement of the body
was visible, as in the antique times.
These transparent materials disappeared by degrees under the successors
of Charlemagne, and women’s dress became heavier and more ample. Long
veils were worn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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