REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. (CONTINUED). Painted faces—Reply of a Turkish ambassador—Ineffectual criticism—Mme. Turcaret’s “pretintailles”—Mme. Bonnet’s law-suit—Brocaded materials—“Andriennes”—“Criardes”—Return of “hoops” and paniers—A sailor’s leap—Actresses’ paniers, and the Greek head-dress—Mme. de Létorières—D’Hèle arrives frozen at the Café Procope—Waterproofs—Finishing touches—Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century—What Mme. de Staël-Holstein thought of fans—Transition 143 CHAPTER XVII. REIGN OF LOUIS XV. The Regency—War is declared against paniers—The Oratorian Duguet—Opinion of the “Journal de Verdun”—Various publications against paniers—Lines by Voltaire—Whale-fishery company—Paragraph from the “Journal de Barbier”—Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Delisle, Clairon, and Hus—Lines in praise of corsets—New bodices—Coloured prints are forbidden—“Perses” or “Persiennes”—Bagnolette—Adjuncts of dress: necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes—Contents of a patch-box—A sermon by Massillon—“Les mouches de Massillon,” or Massillon’s patches—“Filles de Mode,” or Fashion-girls—Some passing fashions—Powder remains in fashion—“Monte-au-ciel”—Simply made gowns—The first cachemire 151 CHAPTER XVIII. REIGN OF LOUIS XVI. The influence of Marie Antoinette on fashion—Letter from Maria Theresa—Léonard and Mdlle. Bertin—Various styles of head-dresses—“Pouf”—The “Journal de Paris”—Reign of Louis XVI.—Male and female hair-dressers—Plumes—Hair worn low—The queen’s “puce”-coloured gown; shades of colour in dresses—Oberkampf and the Jouy prints—Expensive satins—Trimmings, their great number and importance—Gauze, blond, tulle, and ribbons—Some kinds of shoes—Venez-y-voir—The “Archduchess” ribbons—A dress worn at the opera 161 CHAPTER XIX. REIGN OF LOUIS XVI. (CONTINUED). Peasant dress is universal—Fashion “à la Marlborough”—Caps—Bonnets—Mdlles. Fredin and Quentin—Ruches—Low bodices; “postiches”—Costume of Contat-Suzanne—Fashions “à la Figaro”—Literature and politics signified in dress; the Princess de Monaco’s pouf—Pouf “à la circonstance;” the “inoculation” pouf—The “innocence made manifest” caraco—The “harpy” costume—Coats, cravats, and waistcoats—Sailor jackets and “pierrots”—Déshabillés; “the lying fichu”—Etiquette in dress—Seasonable costumes—The queen’s card-table—State of trade in Paris, _circa_ 1787—“Pinceauteuses,” or female colourers 171 CHAPTER XX. THE FRENCH REPUBLIC.