The year 1789—Masculine style of dress—The double dress vanishes—Caps “à la grande prêtresse,” “à la pierrot,” and “à la laitière”—The “pouf” bonnet—Paint and powder disappear—Prediction by the _Cabinet des Modes_—Anonymous caps—Cap “à la Charlotte Corday”—Trinkets “à la Bastille”—Mme. de Genlis’ locket—Cap “à la Bastille”—Federal uniforms—Claims to equality in dress—Reaction under the Directory—“Incroyables” and “merveilleuses”—Coiffures “à la victime” and “à la Titus”—Blond wigs and black wigs—The Hôtel Thélusson—_Which is the most ridiculous?_—Mme. Tallien’s costume—Epigram on bonnets “à la folle”—Reticules—Transparent dresses—Lines by Despréaux 179 CHAPTER XXI. REIGN OF NAPOLEON I. Fashions under the Empire—Sacks—“Personnes cossues”—A saying of Napoleon’s—White gowns—Valenciennes lace—Ball dresses; walking dresses—Polish “toquets” and bonnets—Turbans—Muslins—Artificial flowers—Wenzel’s manufactory; “The Offspring of Imposture,” Campenon’s verses—Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet—Stays—Cashmeres—Protest by Piis—Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in France—Cotton stuffs—Richard Lenoir; importance of the Rouen manufacture—Violets during the Hundred Days—The “eighteen folds,” and white silk 191 CHAPTER XXII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XVIII. AND CHARLES X. Importation of foreign fashions in 1815—White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys—Emigrant ladies—Russian toques—Male and female dressmakers—Ruchings—Short sleeves and long gloves—Herbault’s bonnets—“Chefs”—Anglomania in 1815—Green gauze veils; spencers—The “canezou”—Lacroix, the stay-maker—Dr. Pelletan and Charles X.—Wasps—The “Ourika” fashions—The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves—Fashions “à l’Ipsiboé,” “au Trocadéro,” and “à la Dame Blanche”—Blonde caps and turbans—Head-dresses—Fashions “à la giraffe;” “the last sigh of Jocko”—Female book-keepers; shopwomen—The Café des Mille-Colonnes 197 CHAPTER XXIII. REIGN OF LOUIS PHILIPPE. The Revolution of July, 1830—Fashions in Louis Philippe’s reign—Microscopical bonnets, called “bibis,” “cabriolets”—Variety of caps—Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance—The stage—Historic costumes—Influence of Rachel, the actress—Greek and Roman fashions—Colours—Various designations of materials—Bedouin sleeves—Bonnets and head-dresses—Pamela bonnets—Novel eccentricities—Taglioni gowns, gathered “à la Vierge,” laced “à la Niobé,” &c.—The “Sylvestrine”—Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on the king’s life—Bouquets for balls 205