The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Under the gallant knight, Francis I., the court of France shone with
a new and more refined splendour than that of the Middle Ages, and to
this was added all the magnificence of Italian art. An eye-witness has
described the court of Francis for us with characteristic and intelligent
simplicity. Michael Suriano, the Venetian ambassador, makes the following
remarks:—
“His Majesty expends 300,000 crowns on himself and his court, of which
70,000 are for the queen. The king wants 100,000 crowns for building
abodes for himself. Hunting, including provisions, chariots, nets, dogs,
falcons, and other trifles, costs more than 150,000 crowns. Lesser
amusements and luxuries, such as bouquets, masquerades, and other
diversions, 100,000 crowns. Dresses, tapestries, and private gifts cost
as much more. The lodgings of the king’s household, of the Swiss, French,
and Scottish guards, more than 200,000. I am now speaking of men. As for
the ladies, their salaries, it is said, amount to nearly 300,000 crowns.
Thus there is a firm belief that the king’s person, his household, his
children, and the presents he makes, cost yearly a million and a half
crowns. If you saw the French court the sum would not surprise you.
There are generally six, eight, ten, even twelve thousand horses in the
stables. Prodigality is boundless; visitors increase the expenditure by
at least one-third, on account of the mules, carts, litters, horses, and
servants that are necessary for them, and that cost more than double the
ordinary prices.”
On his journey through France, Charles V. saw the treasury and the
crown jewels. “There is a weaver of mine at Augsburg,” he disdainfully
exclaimed, “who could buy up all that!” It is not the less true,
notwithstanding the words of the envious Charles V., that the court of
Francis displayed the utmost magnificence, and that the king himself
lived in the midst of dazzling splendour. The court of this sovereign,
nicknamed “Long-nose,” or “Nosey” by the people, was a rendezvous for the
pursuit of pleasure.
Judging from prints of the time, the court of Francis I. differed
considerably from that of his predecessors. The ladies no longer took up
their station near the queen exclusively, nor did the men remain by the
king. The two sexes mingled together at the daily receptions, and Francis
I. formed a court in the true sense of the word. His liberality was very
great; he gave away presents of clothes far beyond any gifts of his
predecessors. Brantôme tell us that many ladies possessed wardrobes and
coffers so full of clothes given them by the king, “that it was a great
fortune.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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