Fashions in 1860 and 1861—Jewellery—Shape of “Russian” bonnets—Nomenclature of girdles—Different styles of dressing the hair—The “Ceres” wreath—Flowers and leaves for the hair—Prohibition of green materials—Anecdotes from the _Union Médicale_ and the _Journal de la Nièvre_—Cloth and silk mantles—Braid and astrakan—Four types of bonnet—Morning bonnets—Artificial flowers 237 CHAPTER XXIX. REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED). Sunshades, en-tout-cas, _métis_, in 1862—Sailors’ jackets, jerseys, and pilot-jackets—Princess or demi-princess gowns; Swiss bodices; corset or postillion belts—Lydia and Lalla Rookh jackets; Vespertina opera cloaks—“Longchamps is no more”—Bois de Boulogne—Russian or Garibaldi bodices—Paletot vest—Empress belt—1885 patents for inventions regarding dress are taken out in 1864—Victoria skeleton skirts; Indian stays; train-supporters—“Titian”-coloured hair—The Peplum in 1866—Épicycloïde steels; aquarium earrings—Description of a court ball-dress—The fashions of Louis XV., Louis XVI., and the Empire are revived—Sedan chairs—Handkerchiefs at all prices 241 CHAPTER XXX. REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (END). Five different styles of dressing the hair in 1868 and 1869—“Petit catogan;” three triple bandeaus—The hair is worn loose—Dress of the Duchess de Mouchy—Refinements of fashion—Various journals—New shades—Crinoline is attacked; it resists; it succumbs—Chinese fashions 247 CHAPTER XXXI. THE THIRD REPUBLIC. The years 1870 and 1871—The siege of Paris—General mourning—Simplicity and economy—Parisian velvet and pekin—A concert costume—A cloth costume—Alsatian bows and costumes—Soirées at the Presidency—Marie Stuart and Michael Angelo bonnets—“Hunting stockings”—Rabagas hats—The years 1872 and 1873—Fan parasols—“Leopold Robert” bonnets—The year 1873—Return of luxury—“Regent” belts and “sovereign” dress-improvers—Silks—“Moderate” costumes—The burning of the Opera House—Sale on behalf of those made orphans by the war—The ball for the Lyons weavers—Cashmere tunics—Dislike to gloves—Petticoats—Charles IX. shoes—Slippers—The year 1874—“Page” bonnets and “Margot” hats—Hair in the Swiss style; false hair—The ball given by the Chamber of Commerce—Green—Jet—Various costumes—Hair-dressing—“Mercury” bonnets 251 CHAPTER XXXII. FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY.