Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in 1875—Importation of false hair—Manufacture in France—Modification of waterproofs—“Estelle” bonnets—Tunic aprons—Cuirass bodices—“Montespan” sleeves—“Saut-du-lit”—Shoes of past times—“Bonnes-femmes” pockets—Henri III. plumes—“Inez” veils—Ribbons and flowers—Heavy style of dress—“Pouf” petticoats—Composite fashions of 1876—Armenian toques—“Ophelia” bonnets; “Danichef” bonnets—Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild’s wedding trousseau—A splendid parasol—Gondolier hair-nets—“Baby” sashes and “Baby” bonnets—“Fontanges” fichus—“Platitudes”—Red, as a colour—Pockets of various kinds—Majestic appendages—Princess dresses—Bouquets on the bodices—Hair dressed in the Greek style—A thousand curls—Breton style—Organ-pipe frills—Coat-bodices—Trinkets in black and silver 263 CHAPTER XXXIII. FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY (CONTINUED). The International Exhibition of 1878—Foreign countries—Japanese fans—The little lace-makers of Peniche—Retrospective exhibition of costume in France—“Considérations sur le vêtement des femmes”, by M. Charles Blanc—Historical Exhibition at the Trocadéro—Comprehensive glance at the curiosities of that exhibition—“The Movement” in 1879—“Merveilleuse,” “Niniche,” and other bonnets—Plush—Gown-stuff at a hundred francs the yard—Scarfs, casaques, and various bodices—Madras costumes—Under-clothing; chemise-corsets, morning-gowns—“Housewife” fans; fan-holders—Trinkets—New materials—Visites; jackets; bows; neckties—The year 1880—“Cabriolet” bonnets; “passe-montagnes”—The pilgrim costume—Satins—Favourite colours—Vests—Art buttons—Bulgarian costumes—Jerseys—Scented gloves—Flowers in profusion; a bridal bouquet—Midshipman bonnets—Nordenskiold—Dust-cloaks—Revolution in bonnets—Art and fashion—“Porte-veines” 277 CHAPTER XXXIV. CONCLUSION 289 [Illustration] THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies—Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars’ yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin’s—A remark of Mrs. Trollope’s—The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynæceum of Amman—First appearance of the “Journal des Dames et des Modes”—Lamésangère—Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of Fashion in France. Fashion is the expositor, from the standpoint of costume, of our habits and our social relations; in a word, of everything appertaining to the charm of life.