The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
The class of writers, which will now be produced as affording testimony
respecting the use of the mallow for weaving, are Greek authors,
and who instead of the common Greek terms employ the Attic term
Ἀμοργὸς and its derivatives.
Ἀμοργὸς has been explained by some of the lexicographers to be a kind
of flax (See Julius Pollux, L. vii. § 74.). Perhaps by this explanation
nothing more was intended than that it was a plant, the fibres of which
were used to spin and weave into cloth. It is highly probable that it
was the _Malva Silvestris_ or _Common Mallow_, and that it was called
Ἀμοργὸς.
According to the Attic lexicons of Pausanias (_apud Eustath. l. c._)
and of Mœris, Ἀμοργὸς was an Attic term. We now find traces of it in
seven Attic writers, four or five of whom wrote comedy. These are
Aristophanes, Cratinus, Antiphanes, Eupolis, Clearchus, Æschines, and
Plato.
I. We shall take first Aristophanes, whose comedy called Lysistrata
is frequently quoted by Pausanias and Cratinus, and being still extant
throws considerable light upon the subject. It was represented in the
year 412. B. C. Lysistrata says (_l._ 150),
Κᾂν τοῖς χιτώνιοισι τοῖς ἁμόργινοις
Γυμναὶ παριοῖμεν,
“And if we should present ourselves naked in shifts of amorgos;”
showing that these shifts were transparent. Accordingly Mœris says,
that the ἀμόργινον was λεπτὸν ὕφασμα, “a thin web.” Bisetus in his
Greek commentary on this play, after quoting the explanations of
Stephanus Byzantinus, Suidas, Eustathius, and the Etymologicum Magnum,
judiciously concludes as follows: “From all these it is manifest, that
ἀμόργινοι χιτώνες, whether they took their name from a place, from
their color, or from the raw material, were a kind of valuable robe,
worn by the rich, fashionable, and luxurious women.”
A subsequent passage of the Lysistrata (v. 736-741) still further
illustrates this subject. A woman laments, that she has left at home
her ἀμοργις _without being peeled_ (ἄλοπον), and she goes _to peel it_
(ἀποδείρειν). The mallow no less than flax and hemp, would require the
bark to be stript off, and doubtless the best time for stripping it is
as soon as the plant is gathered.
II. Cratinus died about 420 B. C. The following line, from his comedy
called Μαλθακοὶ, represents a person spinning Ἀμοργός.
Ἀμοργὸν ἔνδον βρυτίνην νήθειν τινα.
_Cratina Fragmenta, a Runkel_, _p._ 29.
III. Julius Pollux, speaking of garments made of Ἀμοργὸς (L. vii. c.
13.) quotes the Medea of Antiphanes thus: Ἦν χιτὼν ἁμόργινος. This
author was contemporary with Aristophanes.
IV. Eupolis wrote about the same time, and his authority may be added
to the rest as proving that garments of Amorgos were admired by
luxurious persons at Athens[204].
[204] See Harpocration, p. 29. ed. Blancardi. 1683. 4to. Also Pher. et
Eupolidis Fragmenta, a Runkel, p. 150.
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