But if we look somewhat more closely at this costume, we find in it a
sort of combination of the Doric and Ionic. The mantle is due to the
former, the kolpos to the latter: the fastening with fibulae is
characteristic of the former, the sewing of the latter. For we must
regard a chiton like that worn by the Maenad on the left in Fig. 18 as
one connected piece, one wide garment, more than twice the length of the
body, sewn together round the sides, open at top and bottom, out of
which the wearer constructed the bib and sleeves by drawing up the folds
and letting them fall over the girdle, and by fastening or buttoning on
the arms and shoulders. There is, however, reason to suppose that parts
of this dress were sometimes separately constructed of different
material. On the vase pictures of that period the various parts of the
dress are sometimes characterised by different drapery. As a rule, the
folds of the dress are marked by unbroken black lines: but, besides
these, we sometimes find reddish brown, zigzag, or wavy lines (thus in
Fig. 17, the upper part of the woman’s dress; in Fig. 18, the kolpos of
the Maenad on the right; in Fig. 19, the kolpos and the sleeve). When we
observe (as in Fig. 18) that in other figures the corresponding parts of
the dress are all marked by the same lines, we find ourselves almost
forced to the conclusion that the artists wished to represent distinct
garments separately put on, especially as this distinction of unbroken
and zigzag folds can also be traced in sculpture. It would be very easy
to imagine it in such a dress as that in Fig. 17; for if in Fig. 16 the
upper garment above the girdle is distinct, it might also be the case in
Fig. 17. But such an assumption would be more difficult, nay, almost
impossible, for Fig. 18. If we assume distinct material for the kolpos,
the woman would be wearing three separate garments--the long chiton,
which simply covers the whole body, the kolpos, and over that a
distinct upper garment with sleeves. The dress in Fig. 19 would be no
less complicated. It seems, therefore, that we ought not to lay too much
stress on that treatment of the folds; probably the artists made use of
it in order to distinguish sometimes between the wavy folds of full
garments, sleeves, etc., and the stiff folds of the perpendicular skirt.
For we may observe that the wavy folds are never found in these
perpendicular garments, such as the chiton and the bib.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.]
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