If the vase painters are to be relied on, especially in the arrangement
of the girding, the fashion at Athens in the middle of the fifth century
B.C. was still rather heavy and awkward. It was not until the excessive
fulness of the girding was limited that it developed that regular and
truly noble dress which we admire in the female figures of classic art
and the following period. Still the dress is by no means uniform, for
the same chiton can be worn in various ways, according to the
arrangement of the girding and bib. The vase picture in Fig. 20 gives
examples of this. There were, in particular, two methods. The one was to
cover the body from the feet to the shoulders with a piece of stuff, and
to fasten this by drawing the points of the folded back piece over the
shoulders and hooking them to the points of the front piece, which was
also doubled
[Illustration: FIG. 20.]
back. Then the extra piece fell down at the back and front, and the
girdle was passed over it. The stuff was then drawn up a little over the
girdle, while the ends of the garment fell down over the hips. Strictly
speaking, the kolpos here fell over the bib. (Compare the figure on the
left.) The second plan was to take a longer piece of the chiton than was
required below the girdle, so that the remainder fell on the ground; the
upper part was drawn up to the shoulders and fastened there by fibulae,
either in such a way that these were visible (in that case the doubled
pieces were fastened together), or so that the pins were hidden by the
front piece
[Illustration: FIG. 21.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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