The last-described form of the chiton, which formed the kolpos and bib
by means of the girdle and pins, continued in the next period, and seems
not only to have extended throughout Greece, but also throughout later
Greek antiquity down to the Roman period. But there were also several
other styles of dress, distinguished partly by their shape, partly by
the manner of wearing. Thus, for instance, the general form of the
chiton was retained, but the dress was made more comfortable by the
separate construction of the bib, which, as we observed, was probably
the case at an earlier period too, and by sometimes omitting it
altogether. Sometimes, again, only a light chiton was worn without any
kolpos or bib, either with a girdle which was sometimes worn above the
waist (compare Fig. 23, “A Daughter of Niobe”), or sometimes falling
quite freely (compare Fig. 24). Afterwards it was not unusual for the
bib to fall below the girdle, while the kolpos was entirely absent
(compare Fig. 25), or else fell above the bib (compare Fig. 20). In the
graceful female figure in Fig. 26 there is another peculiarity. Here, as
in Fig. 25, the chiton is open at one side, even below the hips, which
was not the case with the ordinary dress, especially that worn out of
doors. It is probable that this was the original form of the so-called
Doric chiton, for it is thus that the Doric maidens were dressed, and on
this account were mockingly described as “showing their hips.” In the
ideal figures the chiton of Artemis and the Amazons,
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
though shorter, is of the same kind. The form of the chiton fastened
together all round originated so early that we only find the kind open
at the side in rare instances on the oldest monuments. This chiton
corresponds in shape most closely to the short male chiton; like this,
it often only extends to the knees, and is fastened on the shoulders by
pins without forming the bib. The dress with regular sleeves is also
found in the later costume, either connected with the under garment or
specially constructed so as to cover only the upper part of the body. It
was fastened together all round, and opened at the sleeves, which were
constructed by buttons.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.]
The himation continued to be the usual upper garment. In the older
costume of the sixth and fifth centuries it is often treated as a scarf
in the manner above described, with two points falling down in front
over the shoulders (compare Figs. 4 and 24), but afterwards women began
to wear the himation in the same way as men, either enveloping the arms
entirely or leaving the right arm free (compare Fig. 23). A third mode
of wearing the himation, which, however, is commoner in older than in
later costume, is to draw it from the right shoulder across the breast
to the left hip, leaving the left breast uncovered, and letting the
points fall down on the right
[Illustration: FIG. 26.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account