(then the doubled piece at the back was fastened to the under layer of
the front piece, as in Fig. 20). The bib then fell freely over the
breast and back till a little above the waist, the superfluous piece
below was drawn up over the girdle. The manner of arranging this kind of
dress, which is the commoner, is very clearly seen in the bronze statue
from Herculaneum represented in Fig. 21. The girl, who is in the act of
dressing herself, has already girded the chiton, and is now arranging
the bib; she has fastened it on the left shoulder and is now drawing
the folded back piece over the right shoulder with her right hand, in
order to pin to it the front piece, which she holds in her left hand in
such a way that the back piece may fall over the front piece. The points
of both then fall over the hips to right and left a little more than
half-way down the front breadth. To complete her dress, the girl will
then draw up part of the garment, which is too long for walking, over
the girdle, and this will appear below the bib. In the dress of the best
period this puffing does not fall as low as before (or as that on Fig.
20). It is so arranged that the folds fall lower on the sides than in
the middle, so that its lines may follow the outline of the bib, the
points of which fall lower at the sides. Thus originated that beautiful
costume, inspired by a truly artistic spirit, which we admire in the
best Attic works of the age of Pheidias. As an example of this, compare
Fig. 22, a Caryatid, from the Erechtheum at Athens.
[Illustration: FIG. 22.]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.]
With this dress sleeves, like those above described, are sometimes, but
not always, worn. They are usually half-sleeves, with openings fastened
by buttons or fibulae, not pieces separately sewn on, but part of the
actual chiton.
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