The International Monthly, Volume 5, No. 4, April, 1852Various
History
The International Monthly, Volume 5, No. 4, April, 1852
Various
Art, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- History -- Periodicals
Another mysterious process is the marking of the silk which belongs to
each manufacturer. The hanks and bundles are tied with cotton string;
and this string is knotted with knots at this end, at that end, in the
middle, in ties at the sides, with knots numbering from one to fifteen,
twenty, or whatever number may be necessary; and the manufacturer's
particular system of knots is posted in the books with his name, the
quantity of silk sent in, the dye required, and all other particulars.
We were amused to find that there is a particular twist and a particular
dye for the fringe of brown parasols. It is desired that there should be
a claret tint on this fringe, when seen against the light; and here,
accordingly, we find the claret tint. The silk is somewhat dull, from
being hard twisted; it is to be made more lustrous by stretching, and we
accompany it to the stretching machine. There it is suspended on a
barrel and movable pin; by a man's weight applied to a wheel, the pin is
drawn down, the hank stretches, and comes out two or more inches longer
than it went in, and looking perceptibly brighter. A hank of bad silk
snaps under this strain; a twist that will stand it is improved by it.
Looking into a little apartment, as we return through the yard, we find
a man engaged in work which the daintiest lady might long to take out of
his hands. He is making pattern-cards and books. He arranges the shades
of all sorts of charming colors, named after a hundred pretty flowers,
fruits, and other natural productions,--his lemons, lavenders, corn
flowers, jonquils, cherries, fawns, pearls, and so forth; takes a pinch
of each floss, knots it in the middle, spreads it at the ends, pastes
down these ends, and, when he has a row complete, covers the pasted part
with slips of paper, so numbered as that each number stands opposite its
own shade of color. A pattern-book is as good as a rainbow for the
pocket. This looks like a woman's work; but there are no women here. The
men will not allow it. Women cannot be kept out of the ribbon-weaving;
but in the dye-house they must not set foot, though the work, or the
chief part of it, is far from laborious, and requires a good eye and
tact, more than qualities less feminine. We found many apprentices in
the works, receiving nearly half the amount of wages of their qualified
elders. The men earn from ten shillings to thirty shillings a week,
according to their qualifications. Nearly half of the whole number earn
about fifteen shillings a week at the present time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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