The truth indeed is this, that this central range of Man, though
akin to Westmoreland and Carnarvonshire in its actual make of rock,
is altogether aloof from them in all tangible characteristics. This
is not to dispraise the hills of Man, but only to rescue them from
the ignominy of an obvious, but quite unfair, comparison. Manx
mountains, in fact, though thus composed of slate, have really much
more resemblance to the limestone hills of Yorkshire. They have no
pretensions to rank with the best; but, judged by themselves, they are
quite satisfactorily noble. We are likely, indeed, to appreciate them
all the better, just because we do not approach them in a mood of too
exalted expectation. On the whole they are less dull than the Cheviots;
and even the Cheviots are full of all kinds of delightful surprises.
Moreover, as we win higher among the moorlands by the lane that climbs
from Baregarrow, we realize more and more that charm of all-round
seascape that distinguishes these hills above all compeers, and gives
them their imperishable charm. The wonderful extent of the view from
Snaefell was noted down as long ago as the "spacious times of great
Elizabeth." Thus, Camden says quite truly: "In medio montibus densius
attolitur, e quibus aeditissimus Sceafell, unde sudo coelo Scotia,
Anglia, and Hibernia prospici possit"--that is, England, Scotland, and
Ireland--and Wales must be added--can all be seen from the top on a
clear day. Drayton, in his _Polyolbion_ (Canto xxvii.), has just the
same remark translated into poetical diction:
Her midst with mountains set, of which, from Sceafel's height,
A clear and perfect eye, the weather being bright
(Be Neptune's visage ne'er so terrible and stern),
The Scotch, the Irish shores, and th' English may discern.
"In clear weather," says Mr. Baddeley, "not only is the 'tight little
island' itself mapped out beneath the eye, with the exception of a
strip of the coast here and there, but Scotland is plainly visible,
from the Mull of Kintyre to beyond Dumfries; Ireland is represented by
the Mourne Mountains; England by the giants of the Lake District; and
even Wales shows up, with the Peak of Snowdon, the 'Carnedds'--Dafydd
and Llewelyn--and the range extending thence, Penmaenmawr to the Great
Orme, with, maybe, the Clwydian range, in cloud-like outline, far away
in the south-east. The nearest point of England to Snaefell is St.
Bees Head, 38 miles distant; of Scotland the Whithorn Promontory, 30
miles; of Ireland the entrance to Strangford Lough, 36 miles; and of
Wales the northern coast of Anglesey, 56 miles; Scafell is 50 miles
away; Merrick, the highest Scottish mountain south of Edinburgh and
Glasgow, 60; Slieve Donard, the highest in the North of Ireland, 60;
and Snowdon, 80."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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