The lane by which we are now travelling, though sufficiently
rough-and-tumble, is one over which it is possible to push a bicycle;
the writer himself has done it. It is not, in fact, the least strange
feature of these Manx hills that they are thus traversed by high-level
roads--not actually, indeed, climbing to the tops of the mountains,
but winding in and out among them not far below their summits. One of
these, between Douglas and Ramsey, and immediately under the shadow of
Snaefell itself, has been engineered, I fancy, of quite recent years.
One is reminded a little of the many new upland roads that the French
are now constructing in Auvergne among the mountains of Mont Dore.
Climbing along the south breast of Sart Fell, with the Rhenass stream
below us on the right (which flows ultimately down Glen Helen), we
come presently to the slight _col_ between the valleys of the Rhenass
and the Sulby, just before surmounting which the heavy, dome-like
top of Snaefell starts suddenly up through the nick of the pass, with
its castellated hotel on its summit. The electric rail from Laxey--a
hideous double line--almost completely encircles the bare, flattened
cone of the hill as it winds round it in gradual ascent, exactly in
the fashion in which the line from Clermont-Ferrand (though this is
served by an ugly monster that vomits out volumes of smoke) winds
up the Puy de Dôme, almost like the peel of an orange. It must be
pleaded, however, in excuse of the tram-road up Snaefell--if any plea
may be heard to extenuate its bare existence--that at least it has not
scarred harsh lines round the hill, as is the case with its central
French rival--lines that are plainly visible, on a reasonably clear
day, eighteen miles away, or thereabouts, from the top of the Puy de
Sancy. The view now opens on the left into the head of Sulby Glen--more
properly Glen Mooar, the Big Glen--the strength of which lies further
to the north, where it deepens beyond the inn at Tholt-y-Wilt. This
is usually reckoned the finest in the island, and has certainly best
pretensions to recognized mountain grandeur--if any spot, indeed, in
the whole of the Isle of Man may properly be styled either mountainous
or grand. Hereabouts, in succession, two rough roads turn down, to
the south, to Injebreck, deep in the green valley between Colden
and Carraghan (1,520 feet), and the terminus of a good driving-road
from Douglas. Neither can be ridden on a bicycle, and one at least,
when we descended it--but we speak of now two years ago--was rapidly
being swept away by the fury of mountain torrents. Thus Injebreck is
practically a _cul-de-sac_, secluded in the greenest of dale-heads;
and those who are lucky enough to drop down into it, as the writer
dropped down, just towards sunset on a mild February evening, with
nearly a score of croaking ravens circling above his head, will reckon
it perhaps the most beautiful spot in the island, and one that still
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