remains entirely unspoilt, serene in the possession of its pleasant
rustic graces.
Injebreck, however, on our present route, must be kept for another day:
for the moment we keep the level, round the north face of Beinn-y-Phott
(1,772 feet), till we fall into the great high-level route already
referred to as running from Douglas to Ramsey. This, at the point of
junction, is crossed by a gate the closing of which is enforced by the
threat of legal penalties--a timely reminder that the law of Man is
not always co-extensive with the law of England. Beinn-y-Phott itself
is a prominent summit that perhaps displays more character than most
of its sister peaks. After all, it may be true that the names of Manx
mountains present greater interest than Manx mountains themselves.
Snaefell, of course, is the "hill of snow"--exactly the equivalent
of familiar Snowdon (there are said to be two Snaefells in Iceland).
Cronk-ny-Irey-Lhaa, on the other hand, which drops so splendidly into
the sea between Glen Maye and Port Erin (there is a second hill of
the same title in the north division of the island), is said to mean
the "Hill of the Rising Sun," and bears witness to conditions and an
altitude less rigorous.
From the point where our rough cart-track joins the great high-level
road between Douglas and Ramsey we turn north-eastward along this
latter, between Snaefell and Clagh Ouyre (1,808 feet). Snaefell itself
is easily climbed, if the conditions be really propitious, by diverging
to the left up the gentle hill-slope at almost any point we like after
crossing the electric tramway. Hereabouts, on our right, we look down
into the deep glen, disfigured by a lead-mine, which ends on the sea
at Laxey. A little beyond this, when Snaefell is now behind us, and
growing smaller in the distance, the eye begins to measure the profound
and solemn depths of green and pastoral Glen Auldyn. The elevation is
maintained till quite near Ramsey, when we plunge down suddenly from
our mountain heights by a drop of unexpected and startling abruptness.
Of Ramsey I have little to say: there seems little to say about it. It
is said to look charming when approached from the sea, but the charm
must soon vanish on landing. Down by its quays it is just a little
harbour, with the usual local colour of a place that lives by shipping
and fishing. Of the parts of the town that live by visitors there is
little to be said for good or for evil.
CHAPTER IV
FROM RAMSEY TO LAXEY
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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