_Couleur de rose_ will ever gild our memory of Port Meullin. It was the
scene of our first grand impression of the extreme beauty of Serque; but
it was gilded by a sentiment somewhat beyond mere admiration. From
another point, a very courteous gentleman left his islet villa, and his
lady and his luncheon, and guided us to the descent, where a bevy of
fair girls, in all the romance of elegant deshabille, were gathering
weed and pebbles among the rocks. Charming! Look across from Port
Meullin to Havre Gosselin; there is a green fissure in the cliff 200
feet in height, as if the rocks had quarrelled and fallen away from each
other—it is the _Moie du Mouton_, and along it sheep are lifted to
browse on the green down above.
[Illustration: LA COUPÉ]
And there on the right stretches the bold isolated rock, _Brechou_, or
L’Isle de Merchant, a table of rich mould on a belt of flat rock. On its
southern side yawns a very lofty chasm. We longed to pore into it; but
the currents daunted even the boatmen of Serque. Round the point of
Lionee opens the wide bay of Le Grand Grève, divided from the opposite
bay by that most eccentric wall of rock 200 feet high and 6 feet thick
on its ridge. This _coupée_, thus pared down for safety and for traffic,
is chiefly of sienite or hornblende granite, traversed by a vein of
porcelain clay, and it divides the islet into Great and Little Serk.
This, perhaps prudent cutting down, has, however, shorn the guide-books
of the high-flown epithets of “awe” and “terror,” which they affirm must
strike the adventurer from Great to Little Serk. This peninsula,
_presq’île du petit Serque_—wears a dreary aspect on its face; yet
parterres of the most splendid ericas here and there adorn its soil—a
little nest of cots and some scattered ruins of miners’ huts display a
curious contrast of vitality and desertion. The southern point is the
mining district; and though they have quite abandoned the search for
ore, the superficial barrenness is perfectly consistent with mineral
impregnation below. Our research for mollusca was more fertile in the
pools about the southern point than elsewhere. As we round the point we
come on a little bay, the avant courier of a splendid succession of
coves and clefts on the eastern coast, and lying off this southern point
peers up the bold rock _L’Etat du Serq_. Every brow on this deeply
indented shore should be rounded and scaled and descended, as far as the
worn or stony path can be traced, and then we look directly on the face
of the cliff and _into_ the caverns. There is one cave especially,
called, we believe, _Le Pot_, as fine as can be imagined—the boldest
feature of Little Serk, and on these rock-brows the lichens are in
beautiful profusion, and the grey and yellow cetraria, and the fleshy
_sycophorus deformis_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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