We now come round to the eastern cliff of Coupée Bay, its extraordinary
wall lifting up its causeway almost in the clouds. Beyond, the next
headland opens on us the fine bay of _Baleine_, or _Dixcard_, the
holiday spot of the islet. It is carpeted by white sand, on which small
boats may be pushed in calm weather; it is the bathing-place of the
visitors, whose half-mile walk from the hotel is chiefly on the
greensward, and there is an arched cave in a pinnacle for our disrobing.
Every step on this bold shore displays a fresh picture.
[Illustration: POINT VIGNETTE]
_Le Creux_ cavern, a great hole 100 feet deep, and opening above on the
hill, yawns on the beach. At high-water a boat can be pushed into this
cauldron, which is a perfect miniature of the famed Buller of Buchan
in Scotland. _Point Vignette_, _La Terrible_, or _La Conchée_, lifts
its proud pinnacles beyond this. _Les Burons_ and _La Moie_ lie
off the cliffs. Then comes a black ridge, looking like porphyry,
termed, we believe, _La Chateau_. It bounds the only little cave,
L’Eperquerie—Paregorois—Port Gourey, in which boats may be sheltered
and moored. Into this caverned cave of green velvet it was our fortune
to descend during one of the severest gales, the rolling foam
beautifully contrasting with the black-green rocks. The small boats were
dancing high on the liquid mountain, and even the cutters and a lugger
were rocking and dipping their bows in the water, and yet at the time
the water in this cave, and in _Creux_ also, was the calmest around the
islet. The group of fishermen below us on a rock-ledge were seemingly in
dilemma for ourselves. It was a most perilous footing; so boisterous was
the blast around the rocks, that we were compelled to cling to the
rocks, and several of our hapless sketches were wafted aloft in a
moment. The sailors seemed to think us wild, and to wonder how and
whence we came, and, indeed, why we came at all; and yet this was what
we hoped to see—a calm would have tamed the scene down to
insignificance. Close to the landing-place and the off-lying rock it is
all perfect studies. We have _La Chapel de Meuve_, a square block of
pendant granite, as if momentarily about to fall. The range of rocks on
the eastern coast consist chiefly of sienite. We have now well-nigh
rounded the islet of Serk, a complete _embarras de richesse_; one
glimpse of these rocks taken at random were worth a day’s journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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