The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
Gibbon had for several years withdrawn himself from the turbulence and
neglect of his own capital to share the quiet and enjoy the adulation
of the inhabitants of the Pays de Vaud. He was treated by them more as
a prince than as an equal. Whenever he honoured their _goutées_
with his presence every person rose upon his entrance, and none thought
of resuming their chairs till he was seated. His whim arranged and
deranged all parties. All, in short, were subservient to his wishes;
those once known, everything was adapted to them. The Sheffields,[5]
Trevors, Mr. Pelham, Duc de Guines,[6] Mde. de Juigné, and Castries.
I knew Tissot.[7] Having my residence at Lausanne I made frequent
excursions. I went through Geneva to the Valley of Chamouny, saw the
glaciers; and at a small village in the road stopped to look at General
Phiffer’s model of Mt. Blanc; it was curious but inferior to that
at Lucerne. Our party to Chamouny consisted of the Sheffields, Mr.
Pelham, and some others whose names I have forgotten.[8]
[Sidenote: SWITZERLAND]
Soon after my return to Lausanne I made a tour through Berne to
Lucerne. I was too great a coward to go upon the lake, therefore I
only saw the views from the bridge and the high ground near the town,
as I was too indolent to ascend Mount Pilate. The spot so celebrated
by the heroic and incredible exploits of Guillaume Tell I only knew by
drawings, as it is not to be seen but by going to the Lac des Quatre
Cantons. Phiffer’s model of the whole of Switzerland is wonderful;
it is an exact representation of every object, lakes, mts., rivers.
Such representation of countries would be useful for military posts. I
returned by Soleure, Neuchâtel, and Fribourg and Vevey to Lausanne.
Towards the middle or end of September I began a journey to Nice. I
stopped at Geneva a day or two, and went with the Messrs. Calandrin to
see Ferney; it was in a desolate, ruined state, and showed few marks
of taste or comfort. We followed the Rhône to L’Écluse, where soon
after that it loses itself for some miles underground. The road is
beautiful. Annecy, where Rousseau lived, I believe we passed. Lyons is
a magnificent city, two fine rivers and broad, well-built quays with
sumptuous houses. The manufacturers complained of the revolutionary
spirit which deprived them of orders and workmen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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