The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
From thence I followed the Rhône to the Pont St. Esprit. The bridge
is singular and ingenious. The rapidity of the river had thrown down
the preceding bridges owing to a strong current rushing with violence
against the piers: to obviate this the architect made the bridge of
this form. It has succeeded, and the building is permanent. The Pont
de Gard is a magnificent remnant of Roman grandeur; it fulfilled the
double purpose of bridge and aqueduct. Orange, on account of massacres
at Avignon, we could not see. There are fine remains of triumphal
arches and other military trophies, raised to the honour of Marius,
who there defeated the formidable host of Northern barbarians, the
Teutons and Cimbri, though upon recollection I think he fought them
in the present Venetian territory. Upon the road there are vestiges
of triumphal buildings, erected in the Middle Ages, if one may judge
by the clumsy taste. At Nismes, the amphitheatre and Maison Carrée.
The latter is beautiful, and being the first specimen of Grecian
architecture I had ever seen I was delighted with the richness and
proportion of the edifice. The amphitheatre is small, and disfigured
by the filth and closeness of the adjacent houses. Like St. Paul’s
in London, it is impossible to judge of its magnitude or graceful
structure, as no exterior view can be obtained.
Marseilles is charmingly situated; fine town, a forest of shipping,
busy quays; and the liveliness of the pretty Bastides, all white upon
the surrounding hills, is delightful. This was the first view I had of
the Mediterranean. The deep blueness of its waters and the constant
fulness of its shores struck me with increasing admiration, as I always
thought the variation of the tide was a defect; for pleasing as variety
is, uniformity is preferable to such change as the tide produces--mud
and stench.
[Sidenote: NICE]
Aix is a pleasing town. Crossed the Esterelles, a high ridge of granite
mts.; the passage was infested by banditti, and we were obliged to
take some _maréchaussées_ to protect us. We passed without alarm
or interruption. Fréjus, the See of Fénelon, well deserves all the
disapprobation he bestows on it. Antibes, a gay pretty town; crossed at
Gué the torrent Var, and 4 miles after reached Nice. Some antiquaries
have supposed that the Var was the celebrated Rubicon, which once
passed was so fatal to the liberties of Rome.
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