The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
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The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
_11th._--Arrived at Turin. Ly. Duncannon and Dss. were already
arrived. In the evening I went to Trevor’s:[12] he was the English
Minister. A celebrated performer on the violin attempted to render by
sound the story of _Werter_; the imagination must have supplied
greatly to assist the effect. All that I could understand was the
scene where he shoots himself; the twang of the catgut made a crash,
which made one start, so it had that effect in common with the report
of a pistol. During my stay at Turin I attended chemical lectures at
Bonvoisin’s; had I been able to apply more I might under his care have
advanced considerably in information. Cte. Masin gave me a very fine
dinner. Before dinner he sent for one of the Professors, who exhibited
the cruel experiment upon a frog to prove animal electricity.
I went one morning with Ly. D., Dss. Devonshire, etc., to La Venesia
to be presented to the Prince and Princesse de Piémont.[13] She is
in person like her brother the King of France. Since the downfall of
the clergy in France she has constantly worn the dress of a _Sœur
grise_. They are both bigoted and superstitious. I had many pleasant
parties to Montcalieri, La Superga, the Colline, etc. The Vallentin
is a singular old _château_ on the banks of the Po. It was built
by Christina, Dsse. de Savoie, one of the daughters of Henry IV. of
France. I made acquaintance for the first time with Mde. de Balbi.[14]
Previous to my leaving Turin we were surprised by the arrival of Ly.
Malmesbury[15] and G. Ellis.[16]
We left Turin on ye 10th June, 1792; our route was to Verona, and to
see Lago Maggiore in our way. We went to Arona that we might cross the
Ticino at Sesto, as there was a flood at Buffalora, the usual ferry.
Slept first night at Vercelli. After wading through very deep water for
a mile or two, caused by the overflowing of the lake, we reached, on
ye 12th, Arona, a small town charmingly situated on the lake. The next
day I summoned up courage and went upon the lake to see the Borromean
Islands. Just above the town of Arona stands the colossal statue of
St. Charles Borromeo, executed in 1650 by his family; it exceeds 100
ft. in height, allowing 64 for the figure and 46 for the pedestal.
This lake is longer than that of Geneva. The islands are beautiful.
The Isola Bella is the enchanted spot, on which the fairy palace and
gardens stand. Since the days of Circe and Armida nothing has equalled
the magic land, and little worthy of detention would be an Ulysses
and Rinaldo who could repine at seclusion in such a voluptuous abode.
The Palace is on an eminence, and pastures and terraces descend from
it to the water. Some of the apartments are made like grottoes and
are brought to the margin of the lake: without exaggeration it is a
spot apparently made by magic art. Prince Augustus[17] was seeing the
Palace. I there met with him for the first time. He is handsome and
well-bred.
[Sidenote: 1792 PAVIA AND MANTUA]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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