The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
_13th._--Left Arona; crossed the Ticino and arrived very late at
Milan. The heat in the plains of Lombardy in the summer is intense; the
thermometer varied from 92 to 96 degrees Fahrenheit. The Litta family
live with princely splendour. The Csse. Maxe, celebrated in the annals
of _European_ gallantry, was very civil, and showed me all that
was worthy of notice. Padre Pini, an old Barnabite monk, gave me many
good specimens, especially of his Adularia, a species of felspar he has
discovered. I went over to Pavia to see the celebrated Spallanzani:[18]
he is the great friend of Bonnet of Geneva, and he is the man who has
made some filthy experiments upon digestion.
Pavia is a curious old town, formerly the capital of the Lombard Kings,
and in more modern times the scene of the disaster of the French army,
and the captivity of its monarch. Francis ye 1st here became prisoner
to the unfeeling, politic Charles V. The Cathedral is a specimen of
very early Gothic, misshapen and clumsy. The Po and Ticino join near
the city. Great preparations among the emigrants of Coblentz for
marching into France.
_22nd June._--Left Milan for Dresden. We skirted Lodi, famous
for its cheeses and deep sands. A violent thunderstorm came on at
Pizzighettone, where I stopped; and notwithstanding abuse and threats
I was resolved to stay and not risk my life and my child’s with hot
horses near a deep river during a heavy storm.
_23rd._--Got to Mantua. The waters of the Mincio being suffered to
stagnate, the wells about Mantua are unwholesome and bad. The Palais
du T. [_sic_] is a pretty villa belonging to the ancient Princes
of Gonzaga. The walls are painted in fresco by _Giulio Romano_,
the best of Raphael’s scholars: the subject represents the ‘Battle of
the Giants.’ I looked around in vain for a beech tree under whose wide
spreading branches a Tityrus was wont to recline and amuse his little
lambkins with the soft notes of his pipe in the days of the Mantuan
Bard. Tho’ Vergil was born, one might doubt much if he was bred, here;
he seems to have described the pastoral manners of some happier soil of
Italy.
The party reached Verona on the 24th. ‘The town is
handsome; the bridge over the Adige very fine. The Corso
is very noble.’ They left again two days later, and at Ala
entered the Tyrol.
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