The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
On landing at Baia, the first object is the Temple of Venus, an octagon
building; above it is a circular building dedicated to Mercury and
another to Diana, of which only half remains, like the section of a
building in architectural drawing. In the centre it had a cupola not
unlike the form of the Pantheon. The present castle of Baia is upon
the spot where Julius Caesar had a villa. Every atom of this once
favoured spot was either highly decorated with fine gardens, fountains,
porches, and terraces, or adorned with luxurious villas. Marius was
reproached in the Senate for living in a spot so much the seat of
pleasure. Sylla, Cicero, Lucullus, Pompey, Caesar, Hortensius, all had
villas. The baths of Nero are between Baia and the Lucrine Lakes; the
heat of the water is so great that an egg is boiled in two minutes. The
sand under the sea is so heated that one could not with convenience
hold it for any time. This all proves the vicinity of that powerful
agent so destructive to this beautiful country: hourly may one expect
some dreadful explosion that may perhaps lay the very spot I am now
on many hundreds of feet below its present level, or raise it to the
height of Vesuvius. The sea was rough, and the periodical storm came
on an hour later than the preceding day. It is singular the degree of
accuracy with which the people foretell the approach of bad weather,
and even the duration of it. We returned by land. We passed the ruins
of Cicero’s academic villa. How grand it must have been in its days
of splendour. Atticus procured from Greece the pictures and statues;
that they must have been excellent one cannot doubt, both from his fine
taste and the facility with which he could obtain the finest subjects.
We went next day from Pozzuoli to Misenum: Lady Spencer declined going
from a reason which I did not know till afterwards, or it doubtless
would have operated in retaining me, viz., the length of the sea
excursion, and the probability of a storm. The sea was very rough, and
I, of course, was very nervous. We passed through pieces of what are
called Caligula’s Bridge, but more likely to have been a mole beyond
which he carried a bridge of boats over which he rode to fulfil a
prophecy, which was, “That it was as unlikely that he should come to
the Empire, as that he should ride across the Bay of Baia on horseback.”
[Sidenote: PLINY’S DEATH]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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