The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
We landed at Bacoli, a place which receives its name from the oxen
brought by Hercules from Geryon, King of Spain. Bacoli in Greek (if I
spell it right) signifies _ox stall_. Remains are shewn of a tomb
of Agrippina, Nero’s mother, but antiquaries say it has a stronger
resemblance to a theatre than to a sepulchre. We wandered amidst the
Elysian fields, but saw no blessed souls. All my gloomy cogitations at
the prospect of futurity, brought to my mind by the fiction of poets,
vanished at the sight of present danger, and the lowering black clouds
menaced a fierce storm. Nor was the threat in vain, for shortly it was
followed by the severest thunder, lightning, rain, and hail I had ever
witnessed. We crossed the Stygian Lake in the height of it, and Charon
might have expected some passengers for his infernal wherry. We landed
and dined upon the ruins of Misenum close to the port. It was from
this spot Pliny the elder beheld the burst of smoke from the mountain,
and even felt the cinders. What a magnificent but dreadful sight it
must have been. Unfortunately curiosity impelled him to approach
the yawning volcano; he endeavoured to land at Herculaneum, but was
prevented by the smoke and ashes, he tried Pompeia, and from thence
went to his friend Pomponius at Stabia, near which he was overwhelmed
and suffocated by the cinders. Near Misenum Tiberius breathed out his
gloomy soul.
The next day we made an excursion into the country on horseback to
see the Convent of the Camaldoli. Unfortunately the late hours of
Devonshire House are transferred to the Chiaia, so we did not begin our
expedition till six o’clock; when just as we arrived at the Convent
the last fiery rays sank behind the promontory of Circe. What a view
lay stretched at our feet! Objects that would rouse torpor itself, and
call forth the energy of the poet, philosopher, painter, historian. The
Campania Felix backed by the bold ridge of Apennines, with the Lake of
Patria, Linternum, etc., the distant islands of Ponza and Ventotene,
the nearer ones of Ischia and Procida, Baia, Misenum, Capri, and Cape
Minerva. I cannot enumerate all the grand and pleasing objects. We
exhausted the patience of two planets; the sun first shunned us, and
then palefaced Cynthia left us, before we got home.
I never in my life experienced the degree of happiness enjoyed: it was
the gratification of mind and sense. The weather was delicious, truly
Italian, the night serene, with just enough air to waft the fragrance
of the orange flower, then in blossom. Through the leaves of the trees
we caught glimpses of the trembling moonbeams on the glassy surface of
the bay; all objects conspired to soothe my mind and the sensations I
felt were those of ecstatic rapture. I was so happy that when I reached
my bedroom, I dismissed my maid, and sat up the whole night looking
from my window upon the sea.
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