The journal of Frederick Horneman's travels, from Cairo to Mourzouk, the capital of the kingdom of Fezzan, in Africa, in the years 1797-8Hornemann, Friedrich
History
The journal of Frederick Horneman's travels, from Cairo to Mourzouk, the capital of the kingdom of Fezzan, in Africa, in the years 1797-8
Hornemann, Friedrich
Berber languages; Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Libyan Desert -- Description and travel
The merchants of Augila had appointed their rendezvous to be held
at _Kardaffi_, a village in the vicinity of Cairo; where I joined
them on September the 5th, 1798, and leaving that place the same
day, in about an hour we reached the great body of the caravan,
which yearly returns from Mecca through Cairo and Fezzan, to the
western countries of Africa. The caravan was waiting for us at a
small village called _Baruasch_: we halted at some little distance
from the pilgrims, and encamped until the next morning; when the
monotonous kettle-drum of our Sheik awakened us before rise of the
sun, with summons to proceed on our journey.
I had not under-rated the difficulties of the journey; I was aware
that many must arise, especially affecting myself, never having
before travelled with a caravan, and being little acquainted with
the customs and manners of those who composed it. We had travelled
from day-break till noon, and no indication appeared of halt or
refreshment, when I observed the principal and richest merchants
gnawing a dry biscuit and some onions, as they went on; and was then,
for the first time, informed, that it was not customary to unload
the camels for regular repast, or to stop during the day-time, but
in cases of urgent necessity. This my first inconvenience, was soon
remedied by the hospitality of some Arabs who were riding near me,
and who invited me to partake of their provisions.
Soon after sun-set, our Sheik gave the signal for halting; and we
pitched our tents.
My dragoman, or interpreter, might, even in Europe, have passed for
a good cook; and from remains of the provision which our hospitable
friends at Cairo had supplied, was preparing an excellent supper, when
an old Arab of Augila, observing his preparations, and that myself
was unemployed, addressed me nearly as follows: “Thou art young,
and yet dost not assist in preparing the meal of which thou art to
partake: such, perhaps, may be a custom in the land of infidels,
but is not so with us, and especially on a journey: thanks to God,
we are not, in this desert, dependent on others, as are those poor
pilgrims, but eat and drink what we ourselves provide, and as we
please. Thou oughtest to learn every thing that the meanest Arab
performs, that thou mayest be enabled to assist others in cases of
necessity; otherwise, thou wilt be less esteemed, as being of less
value than a mere woman; and many will think they may justly deprive
thee of every thing in thy possession, as being unworthy to possess
any thing: (adding sarcastically,) perhaps thou art carrying a large
sum of money, and payest those men well.” This remonstrance was
not thrown away. I immediately assisted in every thing that was not
beyond my force; and proportionally gained on the good opinion and
esteem of my fellow-travellers, and was no longer considered as a
weak and useless idler in their troop.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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