The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the Wednesday after dinner I travelled through a fertile open
country of a varied character, and after a journey of fifteen miles
I arrived at Ancona in time for supper. Ancona is the capital of the
Marches, which district was called by the Latins _Picænum_. The city is
populous, swarming especially with Greeks, Turks, and Sclavonians, and
a busy place of traffic. It is well built, flanked on either side by
lofty hills, which project into the sea, one of these being occupied by
a strong fort, by which we entered, and the other by a church. Between
these heights and the slopes thereof the town is built, the main part
being placed in the bottom of the valley and along by the sea, where
there is a very fine port, and near thereto a magnificent arch built in
honour of the Emperor Trajan, his wife, and his sister. The sea passage
over into Sclavonia is often made in eight, ten, or twelve hours, and
I believe that for six crowns, or a little more, I might have hired a
bark to take me to Venice. I paid thirty-three pistoles for the hire
of eight horses as far as Lucca, eight days’ journey, the _vetturino_
agreeing to feed the horses and to give me the use of the same for
four or five days in addition, if necessary, provided I should pay the
outlay on the horses and servants.
I saw many setting dogs in this country, and could have bought one for
six crowns. I never ate so many quails before, albeit they were very
lean. I put off my departure on the 27th until after dinner, in order
to enjoy the beautiful prospect of the town and its situation. At S.
Ciriaco,[1] the church placed on one of the hills before-named, there
are more famous relics than in any other church in the world, but these
were not exhibited. We had it from the people here that the quails
fly over hither in great numbers from Sclavonia, and that nets are
set for them every night on the shore, the hunters luring them on by
imitating their cry and calling them down from their high flight in the
air. It is said, moreover, that in September they return to Sclavonia.
During the night I heard cannon shots in the Abruzzi, which is in the
kingdom of Naples, and from parts yet more remote. All along the coast
towers are built a league distant one from the other, and whenever any
sentinel espies a pirate ship he gives warning by firing a gun to the
tower next to him. So rapidly is intelligence sped by this method that
it has been found that word may be passed from the extreme point of
Italy to Venice in an hour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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