The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
The name Ancona is derived from the Greek word[2] describing the corner
which the sea makes in this spot. The two horns of the coast project
and leave between them a deep depression in which the town stands,
protected in the front by these two headlands, and in the rear by a
high ridge where formerly stood a fort. The Greeks still have their
church, over the door of which is an ancient stone inscribed with
certain characters which I take to be Sclavonic.[3] The women here are
for the most part good-looking, and I saw many decent-looking men and
good artisans. After dinner we followed the road by the sea, which
is calmer and less turbulent than our western ocean. The land is
cultivated almost to the water’s edge. After travelling twenty miles we
arrived at Sinigaglia in time for bed.
This is a pretty little town, situated in a fine level country and hard
by the sea, possessed of a good harbour, and washed on one side by a
river which comes down from the mountains. The port is excellently
fitted, the quays on either side being covered with wooden framework,
where the ships lie in safety, and the entrance furnished with chains.
I saw no remains of antiquity. We lodged outside the town in an
excellent inn, the only one in the place, which they say was called
of old _Senogallia_, after our forefathers who settled there in the
days when they were overthrown by Camillus; now it is under the rule
of the Duke of Urbino.[4] At this time I felt somewhat unwell, for on
the day I left Rome when M. d’ Ossat[5] was walking with me, I saluted
a gentleman we met, and I did this in so maladroit a fashion that
I injured the corner of my right eye with my right thumb, so much
so that it bled and remained much inflamed for a long time. When it
healed--_Erat tunc dolor ad unguem sinistrum_. I forgot to mention
that I saw at Ancona in the church of San Ciriaco a tombstone to the
memory of a certain _Antonia Rocamoro, patre: matre, Valletta: Galla,
Aquitana: Paciocco Urbinati, Lusitano nupta_, who was buried ten or
twelve years ago. We quitted Sinigaglia early in the morning, and
followed a very agreeable road running by the sea coast. Near dinner
time we crossed the Metro, _Metaurus_, by a large wooden bridge, and
dined at Fano, fifteen miles on our road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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