The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
Fossombrone,[10] fifteen miles distant from Fano, and belonging to the
Duke of Urbino, stands at the entrance to the mountains, which close
up towards each other at the end of the flat country. The town stands
close to the mountain slopes, and in its lower parts possesses one or
two fine straight streets, uniform and well built. Nevertheless, report
says, the people are much poorer than those of Fano. In the public
place is a large marble pedestal with a long inscription of the age of
Trajan, written in honour of a certain inhabitant of the place;[11]
and set against the wall is another without any sign to proclaim its
date. This place was formerly called _Forum Sempronii_, and the people
now maintain that the original town stood farther towards the plain,
and that ruins of the same are still to be found on a vastly better
site. Here is a stone bridge which carries the _Via Flaminia_ over the
_Metaurus_. Seeing that I arrived in good time--for the miles are short
ones, and we are seldom in the saddle more than seven or eight hours--I
had plenty of time to talk with the good folk of the place, and to
glean from them information concerning their town and its surroundings.
We visited a garden belonging to the cardinal of Urbino,[12] in which
were many vines grafted upon other stocks, and I had some talk with one
Vincentius Castellani, a worthy man of letters and a citizen of the
place.
On the following morning I departed, and at the third milestone
I turned to the left; and, having crossed the bridge over the
Cardiana,[13] a stream which joins the Metaurus, I went three miles
through the mountains, over a narrow and difficult road, at the end of
which we came upon a passage, fifty good paces in length, which had
been fashioned through a high rock.[14] On account of the magnitude
of the work, Augustus, who had first set his hand thereto, caused an
inscription to be put up in his name. This, however, has perished by
time; but another inscription in honour of Vespasian is still to be
seen at the other end of the pass. Everywhere round about are remains
of vast constructions of great height for the conveyance of water, and
below the road rocks of enormous thickness have been cut through or
levelled. All along this road, the Via Flaminia, which leads to Rome,
are traces of the great stones used for paving, but most of these are
buried; and the road, which was originally forty feet wide, is now
not more than four. I went out of my way to visit this spot, and then
retraced my steps to get once more on my road, which took me at the
foot of a range of fertile, gently sloping hills. Towards the end of
our journey the road ran now up and now down hill, and at the end of
sixteen miles we found ourselves at Urbino.
[Illustration:
URBINO
_Reproduced from Civitates Orbis Terrarum_
_To face p. 12_, vol. iii.
]
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