The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
I could discover no remarkable merit in this place. It is set on the
top of a mountain of moderate height, but the town straggles all
over the acclivities of the site so that there is scarcely a level
foot, and it is up hill or down hill wherever you go. It was Saturday
and a market day. We saw the palace,[15] which is renowned for its
beauty, a huge mass, the foundations of which rest upon the very foot
of the hill. The view extends over a thousand other of the adjacent
mountains, but is not especially beautiful. To make up for the want
of amenity in the palace without and within--there is only one little
garden about twenty-five paces wide--they declare that it contains as
many chambers as there are days in the year. This may well be true,
for the number of rooms is very great, as at Tivoli and other Italian
palaces. Looking through one doorway you may often see twenty other
doors in succession on one side, and twenty or more on the other. Some
portions of the palace are ancient, but the greater part of it was
built in 1476 by Federigo Maria della Rovere, who has set forth therein
the style and dignity of his various offices and his exploits in
war.[16] The palace walls are covered in many places with inscriptions
of this sort, and one of them declares that this is the fairest
dwelling in the world. It is built of brick and vaulted throughout,
with none of the wooden ceilings so common in Italy.
The present duke is grand-nephew of the builder of the palace:[17]
the princes of this family having all been good rulers, and beloved
by their subjects. The love of letters has come down from father to
son, and the library of the palace is a fine one, but the key of it
was not to be found. The duke is all in the Spanish interests, and the
arms of Spain appear everywhere in favoured positions: the order of
England[18] and the Golden Fleece are also displayed, but none of ours.
They showed to us a portrait of the first Duke of Urbino, a young man
who was slain by his subjects for his unjust dealing,[19] but he was
not of this family. The present duke has to wife the sister of the Duke
of Ferrara,[20] who is ten years his senior, but they are on bad terms
and live apart, for no other reason, according to rumour, than the
jealousy of the duchess. Thus, besides the disparity of age--she being
forty-five years of age--there is little hope of children, and if heirs
fail the duchy will revert to the Church, an event which would be very
distasteful to the people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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